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Old 06-09-2011, 04:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamCanFly
Do you know what size SSR would be best to use? I'm looking at http://www.auberins.com
power / voltage = amps

5500 / 240 = 22.9 amps

A 25a SSR is technically sufficient. 40a would give you lots of headroom.

On ebay, a 25a and a 40a SSR are about the same price. Less than $15 with a heatsink.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:03 PM   #22
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Heater element choice - this looks like a useful choice. I think I need a gasket and nut for inside pot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/CHROMALOX-WATER-...item51996f5815

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Old 06-09-2011, 02:15 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by AdamCanFly View Post
Crap, maybe I should just stick with propane. The rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper.
No rabbit hole...the OP wants to build a controller for 2000w to eliminate splashing out of a shallow kettle. IMO for 5 gallon batches in a ten gallon kettle w/ 2000w, a controller is an option, not a requirement by any means.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:18 PM   #24
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Heater element choice - this looks like a useful choice. I think I need a gasket and nut for inside pot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/CHROMALOX-WATER-HEATER-ELEMENT-SCREW-2000-WATT-120-V-/350466562069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51996f 5815
You can probably get it cheaper by just walking into home depot or lowes. It should be less than $20.

The weldless mounting kits can be gotten from one of these two places:

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=95

http://weldlessfittings.com/kettlefittings.html (bottom of the page)
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:30 PM   #25
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You can probably get it cheaper by just walking into home depot or lowes. It should be less than $20.
Yea I second Walker, that element is very common and available at most hardware stores and home centers for around 10 bucks.
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:48 PM   #26
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remember when you are running a SSR up near its rated capacity it will heat up. a lot. if you have a 20Amp load, its much easier on the SSR to get one rated for 30 or 40 amps. it gives you headroom to upgrade and is more electrically efficient (less wasted electricity as heat).

check out lightobject.com
it is a strait-from-china type of site, but they have a large selection of everything you need for cheap. ive ordered from them 3 times so far and not had a problem yet. the only thing i would stay away from would be their thermocouples. they are cheap, but the quality of them is pretty aweful. their temp controllers and SSRs are good deals and are rather high quality, though.

grab a PT100 thermocouple from grainger.com for $14 and you are good to go.

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Old 06-09-2011, 06:03 PM   #27
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remember when you are running a SSR up near its rated capacity it will heat up. a lot.
They will heat up even if not run anywhere near their capacity. 23A through a 40A SSR will get hot as f*ck.

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check out lightobject.com
it is a strait-from-china type of site, but they have a large selection of everything you need for cheap. ive ordered from them 3 times so far and not had a problem yet. the only thing i would stay away from would be their thermocouples. they are cheap, but the quality of them is pretty aweful. their temp controllers and SSRs are good deals and are rather high quality, though.
I have the same PID that lightobject sells (TET 612). I didn't get it from lightobject, but it's the same one. Works just fine for temp control.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:20 PM   #28
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I am sure there is a 1 or 2 volt drop across the ssr. If it has 20 amps through it then that 40 to 80 watts. Hence the humungas heat sink. Yikes.

The heat disapation makes a good case for a toggle switch.

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Old 06-09-2011, 08:33 PM   #29
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I am sure there is a 1 or 2 volt drop across the ssr. If it has 20 amps through it then that 40 to 80 watts. Hence the humungas heat sink. Yikes.

The heat disapation makes a good case for a toggle switch.
and the arcing you will get from a toggle switch makes a good case for the SSR.
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