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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > 2 120v circuits = 2 hot and 2 neutrals lines + 2 PIDs = 2 buzzers?
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:45 PM   #1
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Default 2 120v circuits = 2 hot and 2 neutrals lines + 2 PIDs = 2 buzzers?

I am giving a shot and drawing up a wiring diagram and I am confused on the buzzer. If I have two PIDs on separate circuits, which may be running at the same time, do I need separate buzzers or is there something that I missed/a better buzzer?

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Old 10-30-2013, 03:08 PM   #2
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You can use a single buzzer. Take a look at the wiring at http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/co...part-2?page=12

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Old 10-30-2013, 03:54 PM   #3
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I did see that, but I still don't understa...

Wait, maybe my problem is further back. I currently have PID#1 powered by circuit#1 and PID#2 powered by circuit#2. Can I have both PIDs on the same circuit because they are just telling SSR#1 to let circuit#1 through and SSR#2 to let circuit#2 through.

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Old 10-30-2013, 05:05 PM   #4
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There is nothing wrong with the way you have wired it, and if you have a problem with one circuit you still have the other. You could wire both PIDs to the same circuit as they are both low current devices, but I don't see any real advantages to doing that.

In Kal's diagram that I linked to, he goes from one PID's alarm output (#13 in an Auber 2352) in series to the next's, then to the timer's, then to the alarm and buzzer (you could do it with a single alarm/buzzer device). AFAIK, you can do the same thing, even though the PIDs are on different power circuits. Alternatively, you could run two lines in parallel, one from each PID's alarm output to the alarm/buzzer. Again, I don't see any real advantage to that, as the resistance from running in series is not enough to cause an issue in this application.

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Old 10-30-2013, 07:09 PM   #5
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I was trying to avoid showing my rat's nest until I was able to move on from the rough draft to a slightly cleaner version. Ignore the buzzer because that's what we are talking about and the E-stop was only half drawn and may be replaced with an master power switch. I also just realized I'm missing the hot wire to LED#1. It's a work in progress.

I referenced russki's PJ diagram and there is a slight difference between what he has going into the PID at #13 and what Kal shows. Kal has 1 going to the switch and 13 to hot. PJ has 13 going to the switch and 1 to hot.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/dua...-build-381476/

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