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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > 120V, E-HERMS, 2 Vessel Broth of Vigor Build!
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:52 AM   #21
alien
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Really well thought out build, congratulations.

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Old 02-05-2013, 02:42 PM   #22
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Really nice set up. Have you done any brewing on it yet?

Can you describe how you generated the temperature graphs?

Thanks for the build.

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Old 02-07-2013, 12:00 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by CalypsoCowboy View Post
Question on this build, I'm looking to do something similar. How well does the second batch of water come up to temperature. What I mean is as follows.

1. Heat up mash water, push it to the mash tun and dough in.
2. You now want to use your HERMS coil, so you add new water, normal tap water back to boil kettle enough to cover the HERMS coil, but that water has to come up to temp before it can be used for HERMS.

How long does step 2 take? I'm curious because if it takes 15-20 minutes, that's 1/4 to 1/3 of your mash time.

I'm trying to understand how well a 120V HERMS works.

-Josh
Hi Josh,

Pretty close. I had a stock pot of extra water on the stove heating up while the kettle heated. Once the set point was reached I transferred the right volume to the cooler. Using the hot water from the stove I topped off the kettle to cover the coil and turned the PID back on to heat it up (it was pretty close and didn't take long). I know that is kind-of cheating, had I not used the stove, it probably would have added another 20-25 minutes. I would not add the grain before the kettle was ready for the recirculation.

Once the kettle and mash tun were at the same temperature, then I added the grain, fine tuned the flow and let it go. Perfectly stable the whole time.

Here is a photo of the heat exchange water in the kettle spinning away, and a shot of the recirculation fluid in the drop leg to the mash tun.




After 60 minutes, set the PID to 10C above mash-out temp to create a greater temperature gradient. I didn't record how long it took the mash to make the rise, but it wasn't memorably long. Once the mash got near temperature I lowered the kettle to actual mash-out. After 10 minutes, the element was turned off and the kettle was drained. A flip of the valve assembly and the fluid was pumped into the kettle. I used a little bit of the water from the kettle to sparge, mainly for a better fluid recovery than for sugar retrieval.



At 100% power the kettle had no problem boiling the 19.5L yielded (hair over 5 gal). After 60 minutes of boiling I lost exactly 3 liters.



I'm super happy with the performance. I'm not shattering any speed records, but when a large part of the brewday turns into "push button, walk away, and get perfect temperatures", I'm content to let it takes it time.

The cleanup process needs some optimization. My first strategy took way longer than it needed to. Lesson learned, hopefully better next time.

Let me know if you have any more questions!
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:06 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alien View Post
Really well thought out build, congratulations.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marquez View Post
Really nice set up. Have you done any brewing on it yet?

Can you describe how you generated the temperature graphs?

Thanks for the build.
Thanks guys I appreciate it!

The graphs were made with pen, paper, and patience. A good opportunity to read. For science!
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:29 PM   #25
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That is an AWESOME build! I really like how clean, efficient, and professional it all looks.

If you didn’t have the stove to augment heating, I would suggest that you just fill up your MLT with desired strike water, fill up your HLT as high as possible, then turn the whole system on with PID set to your desired mash temp. It would of course take a bit longer to get up to temp, but you wouldn’t have to watch it. You could just turn the whole system on 2 hours or so before you were ready to brew, and it would all be waiting for you.

Of course you would have to adjust slightly for grain temperature, but that shouldn’t take much.

One of the tips I have learned in using a HERMS system is that it is nearly always to your advantage to have a full HLT.

That’s the process I use on my 15 gallon sanke setup. Sometimes I even turn the system on the night before since it’s in my garage and a little extra heat doesn’t hurt especially during the winter! A couple times I even filled both vessels all the way up then drained my MLT to the desired strike volume. That way I had some additional sparge water that was already at a higher temperature than tap water.

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Old 02-11-2013, 01:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpr121
That is an AWESOME build! I really like how clean, efficient, and professional it all looks.

If you didn’t have the stove to augment heating, I would suggest that you just fill up your MLT with desired strike water, fill up your HLT as high as possible, then turn the whole system on with PID set to your desired mash temp. It would of course take a bit longer to get up to temp, but you wouldn’t have to watch it. You could just turn the whole system on 2 hours or so before you were ready to brew, and it would all be waiting for you.
Thanks kpr!

You're right that the "set it and forget it" mode would work just fine. In one of the above figures I heated the MT by recirculating. Based off of that it would only take a little over one hour to get the HLT(BK) and MT to mash temp, not too bad and it sure is easier!
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:12 PM   #27
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I decided to run a batch with passive heating of the mash tun water. Below is a figure of the temperature trace from start up to drain out. I really liked this method. While the initial temperatures were rising I got my grain ready and had breakfast. I streamlined the clean-up process, so in total the brew day is just under six hours from taking the system out of the closet to putting it back in.

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