120V Dual Element Wiring Diagram?
 

I found the attached diagram posted by P-J. It is almost exactly like I need it with the following exceptions:

1) I'd like to have a main power selector switch (SW2) that would control power to all items in the enclosure. This would replace the PID power switch. In addition to the main power switch I would like a blue LED to signal when there is power to the items in the enclosure.

2) Instead of the push button switches (SW1) I would like to use selector switches (SW2) and a LED to signal when there is power to the item. Yellow LED's for the heating elements.

3) I'd like to remove the pump receptacle and associated push button.

If anyone could help modifying the wiring diagram I would appreciate it. Thanks.

rack04,

I'm very confused with your request. What happened to the diagram that I made for you in this thread: 220V 30A Wiring Diagram Help

Nevermind, it doesn't matter. :confused:

I spent quite a bit of time making a diagram for your very, very specific requests this time as well.

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/imag...B-120V-F-s.jpg


Now settle on a plan and build something.!

rack04,

BTW: Do you know of anyone else making custom diagrams on this forum?

Please let me know if you know some one. We can partner...

Good one PJ!
:mug:

I'm building one of each. 220v for me and 120v for a friend. Thanks for your time and patience.

Just a couple of questions:

1) Is the contactor for the power switch the same as the one for the elements?
2) Can you explain the symbols in the switches, i.e what is different in the wiring points in switch 2 and 4?
3) Am I correct that when a switch 2 is in the on position the blue LED with be illuminated and the yellow LED will be illuminated when the PID determines that the element needs power depending on the temperature set point?

1) Yes
2) Switch 2 is wired using the N/O point. Switch 4 is wired using the N/C point.
3) Yes

Pj, first let me say thank you for all your time and effort. I know I would not be motivated at all if it wasn't for your many designs and posts. I do have a question that applies to both your 120 and 240 v drawings. I notice the emergency stop seems to cut power by tripping the gfci. My question is our home is not grounded. So would this work on a 120 line? What about a 240 line where I split the neutral line in a spa panel. If it doesn't work do you have a recommendation on what to do for an e-stop?

Regarding question 2. Does that mean that the name plate above alarm on/off switch (switch 4) will be labeled "ON" when the switch in turned to the left and "OFF" when the switch is turned to the right?

Last time I checked, that switch did not have a label. Also, if you label the positions for that switch as "Off" and "ON" it really does not fit either. It realily is active/inactive.

Tell you what: Wire it the way you want it set up. I just drew the diagram.

Do you have any GFCI outlets installed in your home and if so, does the test button function?

The way you can provide emergency stop is to wire a contactor to cut power to the system when an E-Stop button is pressed.

I really believe GFCI protection is very important though as the brew rig will be in a wet area by design. I believe it is important to not play the game of "You bet your life".