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-   -   120v Control Panel + 220v quick add on = Ultimate mobility? (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/120v-control-panel-220v-quick-add-ultimate-mobility-217065/)

wh4tig0t 01-11-2011 12:45 AM

120v Control Panel + 220v quick add on = Ultimate mobility?
Seeing this in another post (30a inline GFI) I had an idea to add a 220v element to my current setup

Basically take that cable and add a small project box with two SSR's and an appropriately rated DPST switch, out to a twist-lock disconnect and a 5000W potted element. Then make a removable cable probably with some kind of water resistant connector to go between the small project box and my current control panel for the SSR control wire.

Then I can continue to use my 120v system on two separate 120v circuits, found in any kitchen wired to code, or I can get a 220v outlet dropped in my garage, and I can use my current PID to control the 220v element, and my pumps. Which would be nice to heat water up quicker, or do a 10gal batch.

How does that sound, does what I said make sense?

Walker 01-11-2011 01:31 AM

yeah, I think I understand. Your current box uses the PID and SSRs to drive some 120V receptacles and heater elements. You want to build a small stand alone box with 240V input and SSRs in it and then bring the PID's SSR control signal out and into that box so you can drive a larger 240V element with the same control panel and this little "side car" for it.

I think that should work just fine.

wh4tig0t 01-11-2011 05:33 AM

OK of I use a DPST switch in this small "side car," is one rated for 30a 250v good enough, or do I need something rated higher. Like when using SSR's?

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