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Old 10-04-2011, 04:30 PM   #11
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Depending on where the panel is located and where you want the outlet, could be very easy. 6000W/240V = 25amps, So if you get at least a 30 amp breaker, you should be able to run both. But, you could add a 40 amp and be more than okay

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Old 10-04-2011, 04:43 PM   #12
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Here are a few images of my breaker in my basement near where I will be brewing. I haven't much of a clue as to what I am looking at, but I was hoping that by seeing this, I may be able to get some more advice in terms of an electric build. Thanks!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68257800@N07/6211147171/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/68257800@N07/6211146699/

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Old 10-04-2011, 04:50 PM   #13
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I recently built a 2000W boil kettle for my 5 gallon batches, even without insulation it held a boil just fine. I have it plugged into a 20 amp GFCI outlet (20 amp outlet one of the sides is actually T shaped, GFCI is the kind with the buttons in the middle).
I am in a similar situation (hoping to relocate soon) this solution seemed best to me, with a plan to retrofit when i get a more permanent solution.

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Old 10-04-2011, 05:39 PM   #14
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Ah, LU, just the input I was looking for! so what do you do your boils in? keggle? stock pot (how many qts?)? What volume boils are you doing? Thanks for your help!!!

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Old 10-04-2011, 09:21 PM   #15
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it looks like your breaker box is packed! are there any openings at the bottom? (places for breakers without anything except for the knockout in them)

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Old 10-04-2011, 09:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movet22 View Post
Ah, LU, just the input I was looking for! so what do you do your boils in? keggle? stock pot (how many qts?)? What volume boils are you doing? Thanks for your help!!!
I use a converted keg, but any pot with adequate volume should be fine. I start at about 7.5 gallons above my valve and boil down to about 5 above the valve. I do have about 1 gallon below the valve which I dump. I do intend to insulate my kettle (to reduce time to boil) but what I have works for the time being.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:20 AM   #17
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@jtsims: yes, I have 3 rectangles without any breakers in them. Going 240v is a last option. I will try every which way to make 120v work.

@lu: great info! thanks for the input, I feel confident that I can get a 6.5-7.5 gal load boiling with a 2000w 120v element, which is super exciting!

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Old 10-05-2011, 02:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movet22 View Post
Ok, so lets go hypothetical...

say, by the grace of god, I am allowed to add a 240v breaker-- Is that easy for someone who is moderately handy (def competent, but electricity makes my head swim sometimes), how much is it going to effect my power bill, can I run a 3000w HLT (((AND))) a 3000w BK at the same time, on the same line?
A 240vac wouldn't affect your bill any more than a 120 circuit will. A watt is a Watt, no matter what the voltage is.

That being said, i wouldn't recommend adding the outlet without someone to help. It's really pretty easy to do, but you have the potential (pun intended) to hurt yourself or cause major damage. If you want though, lots of us could walk you through it.
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:34 AM   #19
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I am hoping to only go 240v as a last resort. I'm def going to give a 2000w element a shot on 120v first.

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Old 10-05-2011, 02:44 AM   #20
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I do 5 gallon AG boils with a standard 1500 W water heater element. I mounted it in my brew pot. I wouldn't call it a violent boil like with gas, but it is a steady rolling boil that I think is fine. I have done about 20 batches with it and they have all turned out fine.

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