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Old 06-25-2012, 05:39 AM   #1
Kaiborg12
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Default 120 V Electric Brewery

i really want to get into electric brewing due to the high cost of propane these days. I have been reading a lot about Ebrewing and was wondering if anyone had any part lists or schematics for a 120v 5-10 gallon ebrewery.

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Old 06-25-2012, 05:41 AM   #2
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Unless you are using multiple power sources from multiple breakers, you are going to be limited to about 2000W max on a 120V 20A circuit. That means 5 gallons is about the best you are going to be able to do.

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Old 06-25-2012, 06:13 AM   #3
frankstoneline
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I have a 2 loop 120v brewery setup. It works beautifully up to a 5.5 gallon final volume batch and I've boiled up to 11 gallons in it without too much trouble (though never brewed that big).

Basic schematic is thus:
Powered from two separate 120v loops.

Loop 1: PID-master switch-single PID controlled plug for element
Loop 2: a pair of switch controlled outlets, one for the second boil kettle element, one for the pump.

I have a stainless rims tube with a 1500w water heater element in it that is used in the mash, and the kettle is a keg fitted with a pair of 1500 or 1600w elements (I dont remember which)

Brew day looks like this:

Fill Mash tun (cooler with false bottom and CPVC sparge manifold) to 3.5 gallons. Begin recirculating through the rims tube, set rims tube to desired strike temp, allow to heat (~20-30 minutes). As the strike is heating, I fill the kettle with required sparge volume (using formula total preboil volume less [3.5-.125*lbs grain]) and fire one of the kettle elements to heat sparge water.
Shut off pump, dough in, replace lid and restart circulation. When temp has stabilized flip the PID switch so the rims element begins firing to maintain mash temp, allow to mash (usually 1 hour)
Ramp temp in 5 degree increments until ~175 (~30 minutes) and drain first runnings to a 4 gallon stainless pot.
Recirculate heated mash water from kettle, through grain bed, back to kettle (30 minutes to an hour depending on how efficiency fixated I am). I start with a slow flow and leave the valve closed so as to avoid disturbing the grain bed, increase flow and allow running into the kettle after I get ~ a half inch of liquid above the grain bed.
After sparge recirculation, I pour the first runnings into the kettle and swap the rims element plug in for the second kettle element and run it in manual mode, usually ~90% for a 5.5 gallon batch. Bring to boil (~30 minutes)
Boil. (1 hour)
Chill via counterflow chiller, first recirc to sterilize, then recirc until temp is adequately dropped (~40 minutes)
pump to carboy
pitch yeast.

Worst case scenario, looking at a 5.5 hour brewday, but if I'm really on it and the beer is small I can be done in 4 and a half easily.
If you PM me your email I'll try and put together a parts list spreadsheet and such, if this sounds like the kind of rig you are looking for.

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Old 06-25-2012, 10:56 AM   #4
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Here is one way of doing it:

Click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid Paper (11" x 17")



Hope this is of some help.

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Old 06-25-2012, 01:15 PM   #5
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Here is my electrical schematic and the control panel. I am running two 1,500 watt elements on separate circuits. Edit: Actual build is slightly different than the schematic. I can update it if you would like.

electrical-schematic.jpg   205401_756261788217_516547687_n.jpg  
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:57 PM   #6
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One important thing to consider is you might be pushing it to run a 2000w element and a pump on the same loop. Also, check and see if you are set up for 15A or 20A

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Old 06-25-2012, 07:18 PM   #7
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If you can utilize your stove range as the second element, it greatly simplifies the setup, and you only need it for the boil.

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Old 06-26-2012, 05:19 AM   #8
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All of this information is very helpful! I am going to run some of these schematics by my friend who is an electrician and see if he can look at my house and see what will work. Thanks all of you

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