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Old 08-16-2012, 02:27 AM   #51
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Scenario: PID set for strike water temperature. Alarm set to trigger when temp is achieved. (Alarm goes off and a call out goes to you for attention while you are doing other stuff.) Flip the switch and continue with your brew process.P-J
I am excited about this feature! I am planning on setting this kit right on my stove, underneath the venthood. I can already see myself watching football waiting for my strike water to heat up
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:27 AM   #52
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Congratulations on the awesome build! I am currently in the "slowly amass bits a pieces" stage of a similar minded system (mash in separate vessel, vis-a-vis jkarp's countertop brutus) and since P-J is on a role with the fabulous wiring diagrams, I figure I'll try my luck at a blessing as well!

As far as the electronics are concerned, everything would be the same minus the element power leg of the controls. (And using the Auber SYL-2362, but I dont think that changes anything)

I am wondering about the contactor used to switch the element's power. If the system was dedicated to 120V, would this Auber mini relay work for a 2000W element? Secondary to that question, I am planning a little addition on this build's control however. I would like to throw a horizontal float switch into the kettle to prevent dry firing should recirculation become poor and the kettle level drops. Because it has a low amperage switching capacity, I'm assuming it would have to connect to the coil of the relay/contactor. That said, I don't want the float switch to always have control, queue the three position switch!; Such that I can have element power off (says me regardless of anything else on the system), on/off (says the float), or on (says me regardless of float position).

To further complicate things, I am uncontrollably reverting back to my PC-mod days and really would like to have small panel mount LED indicators for things like system power, pump power, element power, and of course water level (do I smell a bicolor high low LED?). Unfortunately and shamefully, I have lost my electrical know-how since those days . I'm guessing the drastic change in amperage and voltage will require dusting off the breadboard and making a small project board that interfaces with the status of the control's switches/buttons to feed the diodes.

I would love to start a thread about this build once it gets a little momentum in the physical world. Any help to get the control portion materialized would be great! Thanks everyone, and again congrats on the successful build.

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Old 08-16-2012, 02:35 AM   #53
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That makes sense. Is there somewhere that explains the pid setting options in manual and automatic?

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Old 08-16-2012, 02:42 AM   #54
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That makes sense. Is there somewhere that explains the pid setting options in manual and automatic?
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Ma...sion%203.4.pdf
Manual for the SYL-2352 PID
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:41 AM   #55
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Ok I get the buzzer but the disable switch is still a mystery. I think what you are referring to is the e stop.
I just noticed that mistake . P-J answered the disable switch question.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:05 PM   #56
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I have received almost all the parts so far, minus the pump.

How long did it take for your pump to arrive after you ordered? I didn't even get a confirmation email from GreatBrewEh. I also emailed them yesterday and they haven't responded. I am hoping this comes in soon as I would will be looking forward to brewing!

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Old 08-18-2012, 10:15 PM   #57
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Sorry for being a noob.. but with the 2 element set up.. i would be able to use those for a 5 gal all grain batch, one in the sparge and one in the boil?? obv 110 setup??

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Old 08-19-2012, 01:08 AM   #58
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You would be able to do a larger batch (~6.5 gal boil) with the two elements in the boil kettle, but you would need two separate circuits to power each element independently; each element connects to different outlets on separate breakers.

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Old 08-19-2012, 04:21 PM   #59
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jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J
P-J you are quite a person to do that. Lots of good people here but a few seem to go above and beyond...such as yourself.

If I had a 'Nice Guy' award I would give it to you.

Ray
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:35 AM   #60
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I have received almost all the parts so far, minus the pump.

How long did it take for your pump to arrive after you ordered? I didn't even get a confirmation email from GreatBrewEh. I also emailed them yesterday and they haven't responded. I am hoping this comes in soon as I would will be looking forward to brewing!
I bought my great brew eh pump from a member of this forum that had an extra for sale. I have read that their customer service has room for improvement, but everyone is receiving their pumps.
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