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Old 08-14-2012, 02:01 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by StubbornMack View Post
Very cool info. Makes me wanna try it . Does anyone know if this element http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=15A569 would work? Looks like it draws the same volts and amps, but I am definitely not anyone you want playing with electricity.
3000w seems pretty high for 120v. I'm not an electrician either, but I think that would need a 30 amp breaker! 2000w is the highest I've seen used on 120v. Maybe someone else can chime in.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:18 AM   #32
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3000w seems pretty high for 120v. I'm not an electrician either, but I think that would need a 30 amp breaker! 2000w is the highest I've seen used on 120v. Maybe someone else can chime in.
You are absolutely correct. A 3000W element on 120V will draw 25A all by itself and requires a 30 amp feed.. A 2000W element on 120V will draw 17A and therefore requires a 20A 120V breaker.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:47 PM   #33
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I have had several requests for the first diagram (page 1 on this thread) to have an added 2nd element for a 120V system.

So I spent some time making a drawing for that setup. Power is being fed from 2 seperate 20A 120V GFCI outlets. It includes E-Stop that will trip both GFCI outlets at once.

I hope this is of help to thedude00 and others that have requested it.

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing all the best.

P-J

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Old 08-14-2012, 04:07 PM   #34
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Just out of curiosity (and the fact my wife and daughter hate when I brew in the kitchen) what would a single element system like this cost to put together? This would make brewing in my garage a much or realistic possibility. Unfortunately a propane burner isn't really an option for me.

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Old 08-14-2012, 09:25 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by P-J View Post
I have had several requests for the first diagram (page 1 on this thread) to have an added 2nd element for a 120V system.

So I spent some time making a drawing for that setup. Power is being fed from 2 seperate 20A 120V GFCI outlets. It includes E-Stop that will trip both GFCI outlets at once.

I hope this is of help to thedude00 and others that have requested it.

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing all the best.

P-J


I apologize if I am off topic for this thread but I have a few questions about the switches in the wiring diagram from the previous post. I am also sorry if these questions are a little remedial.

1. I assume that switches 1 and 2 are designed to manually turn on the elements that are wired to each switch. If this is true will switches 1 and 2 turn on the elements even if switch 4, the PID switch, is off?

2. From what I understand about PID control each of them generally has a manual mode. If the PID switch is on but the PID is not in manual mode would switches 1 and 2 control the elements?

3. If the PID switch is off will both of the elements be off regardless of the position of switches 1 and 2?


Thanks in advance for your advice. I am learning so much from these threads and I am getting really close to pinning down exactly what I will want in my upcoming control panel.
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Old 08-14-2012, 10:34 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by miahpage View Post
...

1. I assume that switches 1 and 2 are designed to manually turn on the elements that are wired to each switch. If this is true will switches 1 and 2 turn on the elements even if switch 4, the PID switch, is off?

2. From what I understand about PID control each of them generally has a manual mode. If the PID switch is on but the PID is not in manual mode would switches 1 and 2 control the elements?

3. If the PID switch is off will both of the elements be off regardless of the position of switches 1 and 2?


Thanks in advance for your advice. I am learning so much from these threads and I am getting really close to pinning down exactly what I will want in my upcoming control panel.
Answers:
1) The switches are there to isolate the power being delivered to the kettle. The design is such that very minimal rewiring would be needed to convert the controller to a 240V system. No, it does not turn the element on. The PID controls the power being delivered to the element.

2) The PID controls the power to the element in manual mode & in temperature control mode.

3) Yes they will be off. However, keep in mind that if this controller is converted to 240V power, 120V of the power will be present at the elements even with the PID shut off unless switches 1 & 2 are turned off.

Hope this helps.

P-J
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:32 PM   #37
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Thanks for the bonus drawing P-J! That will definitely help someone, maybe even me if/when I get the urge to upgrade.

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Originally Posted by Krieger View Post
Just out of curiosity (and the fact my wife and daughter hate when I brew in the kitchen) what would a single element system like this cost to put together? This would make brewing in my garage a much or realistic possibility. Unfortunately a propane burner isn't really an option for me.
That's the exact reason I built this system, wife and daughter weren't big fans of the house smelling like brew as often as it was. Plus I like to hang out on my back porch. I haven't kept a tally of how much I spent on this, mainly because I don't want to know or the wife to find out! It's not cheap. I would say I have ~ $500 in my system. But I built it with everything I wanted from the beginning rather than upgrading later. You could save a lot going simpler, and a lot of people biab without a pump.
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:45 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Krieger View Post
Just out of curiosity (and the fact my wife and daughter hate when I brew in the kitchen) what would a single element system like this cost to put together? This would make brewing in my garage a much or realistic possibility. Unfortunately a propane burner isn't really an option for me.
I was planning on building the one element rig I priced out everything kettle,pump,controller so on and it came to around 650 bucks that's with some extra things. With P-J posting the diagram for the 2 element system i am going to build that one. I am expecting the cost will be a bit higher because of the extra stuff need for the second element. Once I figure out the add gear for the controller ill post the price. I also have a break down of all of the prices will post when i get home. (jrb03 dont mean to high jack you thread just want to help out Krieger)
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:48 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
I have had several requests for the first diagram (page 1 on this thread) to have an added 2nd element for a 120V system.

So I spent some time making a drawing for that setup. Power is being fed from 2 seperate 20A 120V GFCI outlets. It includes E-Stop that will trip both GFCI outlets at once.

I hope this is of help to thedude00 and others that have requested it.

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing all the best.

P-J
P-J Thanks bro I appreciate you taking the time to make up the diagram
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:45 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by thedude00 View Post
I was planning on building the one element rig I priced out everything kettle,pump,controller so on and it came to around 650 bucks that's with some extra things. With P-J posting the diagram for the 2 element system i am going to build that one. I am expecting the cost will be a bit higher because of the extra stuff need for the second element. Once I figure out the add gear for the controller ill post the price. I also have a break down of all of the prices will post when i get home. (jrb03 dont mean to high jack you thread just want to help out Krieger)
Great info, not a hijack at all. I want to help everyone too. Good luck with your build!
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