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Old 05-22-2013, 01:26 AM   #351
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Based on the dimensions it looks like at least 2 inches. Maybe a bit more depending on what hardware you install in the kettle. Take a look on the first page of this thread. It shows jrb's original build for more perspectives.



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Old 06-01-2013, 04:25 PM   #352
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Can anyone tell me what PID setting(s) I need to change to get my mash temp more accurate? I tried my first brew session last night with this setup and I set the SV to 152 but the PV kept on raising up to 155/156. I had the PID, Element, and Pump all on during the mash.

Thanks!

Edit:

Found this post by Kal. I am going to give this a shot in the next few days and will report back after my next brew session if it helped.

"IMHO the best way to do an autotune is slightly below the target temp and to do it in the range where the PID will be working. For example, 154F for mash.

To quote myself:

Quote:
At (auto tuning): The first few times you brew the temperature may rise higher or drop lower than the temperature you set. This is normal. The PID will automatically learn the heating and cooling characteristics of your setup and tune itself over time to provide more precise temperature control. This learning can also be forced by having the PID perform auto tuning. Auto tuning only needs to be performed once. If anything drastic changes about your setup, consider performing it again. To perform auto tuning, do the following:

1. Fill your tank with water and set the PID to a typical mash temperature of around 154F.

2. Once the water is approximately 10 degrees below the 154F set temperature, set the At setting to 2. Auto tuning will automatically start after 10 seconds. For the next 10-20 minutes the PID will automatically turn the heating element on and off multiple times to see how fast temperature rises and drops in order to set the proportinal, integral, and derivative parameters automatically. The A/M light will blink during auto tuning. Once auto tuning is complete the At setting will return to the default value of 3."



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Old 06-06-2013, 10:30 PM   #353
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Well I followed Kal's advice exactly and the mash temp stayed perfect at 152 F for my last brew on this system. So if your PID is ever over shooting your target temp give this a whirl first.

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Old 06-11-2013, 01:15 AM   #354
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jrb if you're still following along here...have you ever tried to stick a magnet to the bottom of your kettle? Is it induction ready?

I think this is the closest I have found to your original kettle:
CONCORD 26 QT Stainless Steel Stock Pot w/ Basket

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Old 06-11-2013, 01:19 PM   #355
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I am prettty sure this is the kettle he is using.

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_27721_-1__?N=46887985+10001&Ntt=stainless&Ntk=All

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Old 06-12-2013, 12:52 AM   #356
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Thanks for that link meshbackhats.

That does look closer to jrb's kettle. Anyone have these kettles that can do the magnet test for induction cookers?

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Old 06-12-2013, 02:09 AM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammy33 View Post
Thanks for that link meshbackhats.

That does look closer to jrb's kettle. Anyone have these kettles that can do the magnet test for induction cookers?
I just recieved that kettle and did the magnet test and it does not stick to it.

Hope this helps
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Old 06-12-2013, 01:48 PM   #358
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doesnt surprise me, I thought most SS pots are not induction ready only the triclad bottom ones

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Old 06-20-2013, 06:04 PM   #359
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Sorry everyone life got real crazy for me the last couple months, first time on the forums in a while. I have a brew day planned for tomorrow, really looking forward to it! My pipeline of three 2.5 gallon kegs is gone, last one kicked last weekend! I have a lot of brewing to do! I have been going through the thread and trying to answer all questions and pm's, but please forgive me for the wait and send me another message if I missed anybody.

And no, my pot is not induction ready.

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Old 06-25-2013, 01:29 AM   #360
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I search the thread but nothing showed up so..... can the STC-1000 be used in this build?



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