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Old 02-16-2013, 11:18 PM   #311
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Do you have a Multimeter? If not, get one. You then use the 'ohm' scale to measure continuity for your wiring. This way you can test that the wiring is correct and also check the switches for their proper action and continuity when switched.

You then use the meter on voltage to check where and how power is being delivered. Without it you are just plain guessing. Something is not right and you need to find out what.



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Old 02-17-2013, 04:18 AM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekjohns View Post
Great build! I am doing something very similar with these modification. 1) No pump switch as I already have a dedicated pump box. 2) A contactor for main power supply as this is going to be eventually upgraded to 240V and I light have a switch for main power.


With the adjustments mentioned above I have a few questions.

1) Can I connect 2 contactors together to tidy up wiring. What I mean by this is the first contactor will switch main power on. Then, as opposed to have having the power go from contactor 1 to the terminal strip then from the terminal strip to contactor 2 to control the element, can I have to power go from contactor 1 directly to contactor 2 then to the element? (I will also have a 14G wire go from contactor 1 to the terminal strip to power everything else.)
sorry not sure I follow

2) I read that on 120V system switching the neutral is not need and does not need to be hooked up to the contractors. Again this would clean up some wiring. Is this true?
light switches only switch the hot, same deal here.

3) Does the orientation of the contactors matter as far as line in and out, or does it just depend on how you wire it up?
doesnt matter.
.


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Old 02-17-2013, 04:23 AM   #313
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Your Build has been a great service. Thanks
Did you ever change your element connection. ? How did you handle the ground to kettle on your rubber coupling? Your build and several listed in this thread have connections without a J box but some form of rubber or PVC coupling or cap. Those that solder are the only ones I could actually see in the pictures. I would appreciate any info and hopefully pics on your method.
Nope still pressing my luck with the rubber coupling. I do take out my multimeter and ohm out the ground before each brew session. The ground wire is held against the element nut by the couplings clamp, best I can describe it. Soldering is the way to go.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:28 AM   #314
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I used this schematic minus the pump and every time I power on an element, I trip the breaker. Also, the first time I powered it up, both sides of my resistors started smoking. I have replaced the resistors but I'm still tripping the breaker. I have the resistor runs going to 1 and 2 of the E-Stop switch and the other side is the ground tied to 3 and 4. I have a small jumper wire going between 3 and 4 like in the schematic. I can attach pictures of my wiring if need be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you have major issues with your wiring job. Please start a new thread, I'm sure you'll get more help.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:46 PM   #315
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Okay so I built mine using a 2000W element and a 10.5 gallon polarware pot (Diameter 15") and no dice. Even with insane insulation and lid 1/3 way on I will only get a simmer. Trying to decide now if it is worth sinking another $60 into a small skinny pot or just using this to mash and boil in a different pot with propane...

for those of you using the tall skinny 30 qt pots are you getting a soft or hard boil and what is your boil off rate (could you also please specify your wattage?)

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Old 02-25-2013, 09:22 PM   #316
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Im getting a boil with the 2000 watt element and boiloff is .60 of a gallon a hour

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Old 02-25-2013, 09:41 PM   #317
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Im getting a boil with the 2000 watt element and boiloff is .60 of a gallon a hour
I am assuming the low boil off is cause the pot has a small diameter? How would you describe your boil? hard soft rolling violent?
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:23 AM   #318
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Most on here have characterized their boil as not hard, but soft or medium, and are using 1600 or 2000 watt. Not sure how much water your trying to boil in the 10 gallon pot, but your not gonna boil much more than 4 or 4.5 gallons with a 2000 watt element. 3.5 is more ideal. This thread and build is for half batches. Full 5 gallon batch is gonna need 2 110v elements or 240v.

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Old 02-26-2013, 03:32 AM   #319
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sorry I should have clarified that I was trying to make 2.5 gallon batches. I was just using my 10 gallon pot cause that is what I have. jrb03 what is your boil off rate? I would like to finish with 3 gallons so I can get 2.5 gallons in the keg after equipment loss. Do you think with 2000W and your pot from academy sports I could get a nice boil?

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Old 02-26-2013, 05:01 PM   #320
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My boil off rate is about .5 gallon an hour. I bring about 3.25 gallons to a boil after mashing, and finish with about 2.75. My element is 1600 watt, so I see no reason why you couldn't do the same or better with a 2000 watt element. I would double check that everything is working properly.



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