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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > 110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:47 AM   #291
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the shirron plat chiller works fantastic! Before I "downgraded" to three 2.5 gallon batches I used it all the time on five gallon ones.

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Old 02-07-2013, 05:07 AM   #292
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jrb, curious as to what size plate chiller you have. I would imagine you don't need a large one for your batch size.
Mine is the duda diesel 10 plate chiller. I would probably go 20 plate if I was to do it again, but only for future consideration. The 10 plate works fine for this batch size and was super cheap.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:23 PM   #293
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Im using the shirron but thinking of switching to a immersion chiller. Less loss and less mess in the kitchen

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Old 02-08-2013, 03:04 PM   #294
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Great build! I am doing something very similar with these modification. 1) No pump switch as I already have a dedicated pump box. 2) A contactor for main power supply as this is going to be eventually upgraded to 240V and I light have a switch for main power.


With the adjustments mentioned above I have a few questions.

1) Can I connect 2 contactors together to tidy up wiring. What I mean by this is the first contactor will switch main power on. Then, as opposed to have having the power go from contactor 1 to the terminal strip then from the terminal strip to contactor 2 to control the element, can I have to power go from contactor 1 directly to contactor 2 then to the element? (I will also have a 14G wire go from contactor 1 to the terminal strip to power everything else.)

2) I read that on 120V system switching the neutral is not need and does not need to be hooked up to the contractors. Again this would clean up some wiring. Is this true?

3) Does the orientation of the contactors matter as far as line in and out, or does it just depend on how you wire it up?

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Old 02-08-2013, 06:37 PM   #295
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Originally Posted by jrb03 View Post
I've had several requests about my narrow pot. Ive had it for years, and have not been able to find another one like it. It was sold with a basket, and intended for outdoor frying. All the pots I see now are shorter and wider. If anyone finds something like it please let us know!
Found this on ebay. It looks similar to yours. ~$75 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200890640551

Here's a 9 Gal version for ~$15 more.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200890640560

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Old 02-12-2013, 12:40 PM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfalfa_Male

Found this on ebay. It looks similar to yours. ~$75 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200890640551

Here's a 9 Gal version for ~$15 more.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200890640560

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Thank you, that 6 gallon looks exactly like mine!
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:34 PM   #297
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Default How to ground to kettle with non J box connections

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Well I got everything completed and first brew done! I want to give PJ a big thank you for the drawing, it's exactly what I wanted. It was a true joy to brew on this system.

First, I got the element wired up. I decided to try using this 1 1/4" rubber coupling. Other than the weird smell, it seems to work great. I stole this idea somewhere on this forum. I found a male adapter that fits perfect in the coupling. I like the light at the female end of the extension cord I hacked up. Let's me see when the element is on.



I decided to try BM's Cream of Three Crops for my first brew, sounds perfect for football season. Here is the system setup for mash in.



The recirculation works great, I overshot my og because I planned for 70% efficiency but got 79%. I also used my ugly junk corona mill for the first time.





After a 10 min mashout at 170 it took 20 mins to get to a hard rolling boil. I left the PID at 100% manual mode and liked the boil strength for the 3.5 gallons. I boiled off .75 gallon an hour like in my water test last night. I think the 10" diameter pot is keeping the boil off rate low.



I forgot to take a pic of my plate chiller setup. It took about 10 mins to get from boiling down to 89' which is the ground water temp right now. I pumped into the better bottle and put it away in the ferm freezer to chill down.




I checked it after 4 hours and I was down to 65'. Pitched half a pouch of US-05.



Can't wait to brew again!
Your Build has been a great service. Thanks
Did you ever change your element connection. ? How did you handle the ground to kettle on your rubber coupling? Your build and several listed in this thread have connections without a J box but some form of rubber or PVC coupling or cap. Those that solder are the only ones I could actually see in the pictures. I would appreciate any info and hopefully pics on your method.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:05 PM   #298
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hi folks - amazing thread. i will be building my system over the coming weeks/months and will be basing the mash temp control around P-J's design.

i am currently struggling with one issue: how would i modify the original design if i wanted to keep the pump out of the PID? I plan on constantly recirculating during the mash so no need for automated control. in the current design is there an option to put the pump on manual (i.e. always on)?

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Ranco 1 stage temp controller can handle 15 amps w/ internal relay. This could be used for a basic setup, no control panel required.
very useful tip, thanks. i had asked something similar about the Johnson A419 (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/joh...9-rims-388083/) and someone mentioned that "The Johnson only cycles on and off with a 2 degree swing, even set at its narrowest offset setting." so until i get my PID box built i might use a Ranco. i can use it for fermentation control once it's been replaced by the PID.

thanks everyone!
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:06 PM   #299
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I made a post about PID instructions if you can find it.
jammin, could you point me to this post? i can't seem to find it...
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What hops should I grow? Hop grower's comparison table. Looking for cheap honey?

Drinking: a farmhouse with ECY08 & brett blend, wet-hopped harvest ale x 2, second runnings dark ale with vanilla
Fermenting: (nothing active)
Aging: imperial chocolate stout, sour cherry mead, oud bruin & a few other sours, acerglyn, a BDSA
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:58 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetcell View Post
...
i am currently struggling with one issue: how would i modify the original design if i wanted to keep the pump out of the PID? I plan on constantly recirculating during the mash so no need for automated control. in the current design is there an option to put the pump on manual (i.e. always on)?

...
The pump is independently controlled with its own switch. It does not and is not controlled in any way by the PID.
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