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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > 110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:21 PM   #181
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So I just read through all of this and am starting to get interested in eBIAB for the upcoming winter here. I have a few questions:

1st: To my understanding the contractor is used because the switches aren't rated at high enough amps? I know this design was laid out for those switches specifically but could you sub in say a 15 or 20A 120V light switch and not use the contractor? I'm electrically challenged but have a few of those laying around.

2nd: Another terminal block question. Is it as simple as hooking up the hot/neutral to one screw and then just running wires of the remaining spaces? Again, electrically challenged here.

3rd: Power source, maybe I'm just confused now but what kind of chord should be used as your main power supply.

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Old 12-10-2012, 10:11 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rex
I want to do something like this:

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/imag...simple-1-s.jpg

I also want to add an E stop and a main on/off keyed switch.

Can anyone help with the diagram?
Please start a new thread, let's keep this thread specific to this design.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:16 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmybeer
So I just read through all of this and am starting to get interested in eBIAB for the upcoming winter here. I have a few questions:

1st: To my understanding the contractor is used because the switches aren't rated at high enough amps? I know this design was laid out for those switches specifically but could you sub in say a 15 or 20A 120V light switch and not use the contractor? I'm electrically challenged but have a few of those laying around.

2nd: Another terminal block question. Is it as simple as hooking up the hot/neutral to one screw and then just running wires of the remaining spaces? Again, electrically challenged here.

3rd: Power source, maybe I'm just confused now but what kind of chord should be used as your main power supply.
1st. I think so but I'm not an electrician either! I like it the way it's designed.

2nd. Yes.

3rd. Power cord needs to be 12guage wire. I found it easy to hack up a 12g extension cord.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:26 AM   #184
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i think i'm going to go for a very simple version of this (possibly just a switch for turning on the PID) into my spare skinny 7.5gal pot. Thus i can do 3 gallons with 2000w just fine. and if i want to do larger like 5 gallon batches, i just have to put it on the stove with the element on . quite epic, and quite cheap! since i have everything already for the most part.

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Old 12-11-2012, 03:06 AM   #185
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Switch the element not the pid. That way you have complete control of power to the element. My large pot is setup that way. Its nice to just shut off the element to prevent boilovers

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Old 12-11-2012, 04:23 AM   #186
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Ah, whoops! thats what i meant!

:EDIT:

Basically, this one. But just one element and add a switch in front of the pid as well. (so i can make sure it never runs dry if i'm just plugging it in, plus i dont want to have something immediately turn on when i plug it in, that freaks me out )

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Originally Posted by P-J View Post
You would need to modify the first diagram to add another power input circuit that is independently fed on another circuit breaker. Something like this:

And - as always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Hope this help you.
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:45 AM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrb03 View Post
3rd. Power cord needs to be 12guage wire. I found it easy to hack up a 12g extension cord.
Thanks for answering all my questions jrb! One more question at you or anyone else out there on the internet: where did you find that fancy-pancy 12g extension cord with the light on it. Right now I'm just internet searching and a lot of 12g extension cords I'm finding are like 50 ft long or super expensive. What should I be looking to spend on this?
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:24 AM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmybeer View Post
Thanks for answering all my questions jrb! One more question at you or anyone else out there on the internet: where did you find that fancy-pancy 12g extension cord with the light on it. Right now I'm just internet searching and a lot of 12g extension cords I'm finding are like 50 ft long or super expensive. What should I be looking to spend on this?
I got mine at lowes. It was 15ft and I have no idea how much it was. I want to say it was around $20 or so.

Edit: here you go

http://www.lowes.com/pd_68218-66906-...ductId=3191739
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:11 AM   #189
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Well, step one is down and I'm getting ready to go. I hooked up my pump to a power source today and am running a test BIAB batch which recirculating the wort at this moment. I tested the pump and everything ran fine but then I dropped the grain bag in and it got stuck in the rather small piece of copper tubing I use as a dip tube impeding the flow. I had some trouble with that for a while but once I pushed the bag a bit out of the way it's running fine.

I'm going to get a diptube more like the one pictured on the first few pages here and I don't think it will be a problem but was wondering if anyone else had an issue with this? Trying to regulate temp on the stove right now and going up and down a bit but I guess that is why I need some electrical support.

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Old 12-21-2012, 06:46 PM   #190
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Do you guys mash for a little longer than an hour usually? I did a stout again with my regular BIAB on the stove and mashed for 60 minutes, whereas last time I mashed for 75 (I think), and I lost like 10% efficiency. I think if I have this system and decide to do a double IPA or something, I'd want to mash for at least 90 minutes, if not a couple hours.

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