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Old 11-12-2012, 08:07 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by jammin View Post
Yes. The pump is turned on with an LED switch. The other 2 switches power on/off the PID and heating element.
Sorry to ask more about it, so the PID switch simply powers up the PID and the other switch for the heating element... I don't understand. Doesn't the PID turn the element on and off to regulate the temperature?

Also, what size kettle are you using? I currently do 3 gallon BIAB batches in a 5 gallon kettle, but I fill the kettle to the very tippy top, haha. Seems like a 10 gallon kettle would be plenty big. Thanks for answering my questions!

*Edit, found my answer to kettle size: 6 gallon.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:14 PM   #112
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The PID controls when the current is sent to the element, but the LED switch controls the contactor which lets current to the element in an "all or nothing" manner. It's basically just a secondary line of safety, so you can turn off the element regardless of what the PID is telling the SSR/element to do.
You can sorta think of the PID as a dimmer and the contactor as a light switch - doesn't matter what you do with the dimmer lever if the light switch is turned off....

It's a way for you to be sure all power to the kettle/element is off.

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Old 11-12-2012, 09:38 PM   #113
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You can sorta think of the PID as a dimmer and the contactor as a light switch - doesn't matter what you do with the dimmer lever if the light switch is turned off....

It's a way for you to be sure all power to the kettle/element is off.
Makes perfect sense, thank you!
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:34 PM   #114
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I've been adding up everything... Looks like about $225 at Auberins, over $200 at Bargain Fittings, plus a new kettle, pump and element... Not cheap, but I am hoping to build my setup very similar to this over the next few months. Thanks for all the info in here. The only thing I am worried about is understanding the PID instructions

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Old 11-15-2012, 07:59 PM   #115
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I've been adding up everything... Looks like about $225 at Auberins, over $200 at Bargain Fittings, plus a new kettle, pump and element... Not cheap, but I am hoping to build my setup very similar to this over the next few months. Thanks for all the info in here. The only thing I am worried about is understanding the PID instructions
I made a post about PID instructions if you can find it.

Post here when you have questions tho!
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:07 PM   #116
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jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J
I am planning on making a panel just like this except I will be using a 3000w 120v element, on a 30amp breaker. Would anything need to be changed in P-J's diagram or would it work out to be the same?
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:56 AM   #117
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I've ordered nearly everything I need to complete this build. But I want to make my control box more modular.

I'd like to use a computer power cord to hook up the box to the wall. Seems easy enough.
And then, I'd like to plug my element and pump into the box as well.
If I'm not mistaken, my temp probe has an inline disconnect that I can attach/detach from the box.

Does any of this make sense? I'm going to see how far I can get into the wiring process, supplies are in the mail, I'm going to have a friend confirm my results before powering on. I'd just like to get some great help from you folks!

I'm open to suggestions or changes too!

Thanks.

*Edit, I guess the computer cord "inlet" i'm thinking of would be properly called a receptacle? Plug, Connector, Receptacle.

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Old 11-20-2012, 03:12 AM   #118
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First off I think this is awesome. Just got bored the other day and started looking into this when I kind of wanted to brew but didn't want to run to the store to get a new propane tank. And yes, it's only a mile away and I am that lazy sometimes.

Anyways, like I said, this looks like a terrific setup but might be more than I can justify spending in my current state. This got me thinking though. Maybe I could do something in a step by step process. Right off the bat getting the pump to recirculate on the stovetop might not be a bad starting point. After that I guess just piecing stuff together.

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Old 11-20-2012, 03:24 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain_brew
I've ordered nearly everything I need to complete this build. But I want to make my control box more modular.

I'd like to use a computer power cord to hook up the box to the wall. Seems easy enough.
And then, I'd like to plug my element and pump into the box as well.
If I'm not mistaken, my temp probe has an inline disconnect that I can attach/detach from the box.

Does any of this make sense? I'm going to see how far I can get into the wiring process, supplies are in the mail, I'm going to have a friend confirm my results before powering on. I'd just like to get some great help from you folks!

I'm open to suggestions or changes too!

Thanks.

*Edit, I guess the computer cord "inlet" i'm thinking of would be properly called a receptacle? Plug, Connector, Receptacle.
Typical pc power cords are 18 awg or 16 awg. For a 30 amp 110v circuit you will need 10 awg wiring. Make sure your power cord and receptacle are rated appropriately.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:19 AM   #120
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Originally Posted by ddahl84 View Post
I am planning on making a panel just like this except I will be using a 3000w 120v element, on a 30amp breaker. Would anything need to be changed in P-J's diagram or would it work out to be the same?
I've never seen a 3000w 120v element??? Theoretically it should work the same just make sure your contactor and ssr are rated for 30 amps.
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