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Old 08-04-2012, 05:47 PM   #1
Tinga
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Default 110v eHERMS build

So I'm moving here in a couple days and the space is a little bit smaller so I want to condense my system a little bit and go all electric so I can brew inside year round. I have various kettles and coolers from different size batches I make so I have all three vessels for my build.

In the beginning stages of this build I just want to focus on the HLT and MT. The BK will come later and be a simple one element plugged into the wall.

So I will be doing a HERMS set up and was wondering if this wiring diagram would work.

*some of you may notice this diagram was originally done by PJ but I modified it quite a bit to include some other things. I have been looking at lots of diagrams from PJ and I can say we are all very lucky to have such a helpful member among us.

the three switches will control power to the PID, power to the pump and power to my stir plate which will stir the water in the HLT and starter before brew day. The pump will circulate the mash through the copper coil in the HLT and the PID will control power to the element. Anyone have any feedback for the diagram?

I will post pictures as the build progresses.



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Old 08-04-2012, 07:12 PM   #2
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How many gallons are going to be brewed? Also, as it stands now, I hope your power IN is 20 amps. I would think about gaining more control and a bit of safety by adding an ON/OFF switch (rated for 20 amps) in between the load (element) and the output side of the SSR. We're going to need to know how many gallons you're going to be brewing to comment any further.
The use of (1) 1500W element is fine if you're brewing less than 5 gallons...say 2.5 - 3 gallons...but if you are planning on brewing 5 gallons and above, I would add another GFI'd 20 amp Circuit ...element, outlet, SSR and ON/OFF switch. You can also use a 1750/2000 LWD element instead of the 1500.
PJ's diagrams are top notch and I refer to them often!

Hope this helps....



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Old 08-04-2012, 07:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wottaguy View Post
How many gallons are going to be brewed? Also, as it stands now, I hope your power IN is 20 amps. I would think about gaining more control and a bit of safety by adding an ON/OFF switch (rated for 20 amps) in between the load (element) and the output side of the SSR. We're going to need to know how many gallons you're going to be brewing to comment any further.
The use of (1) 1500W element is fine if you're brewing less than 5 gallons...say 2.5 - 3 gallons...but if you are planning on brewing 5 gallons and above, I would add another GFI'd 20 amp Circuit ...element, outlet, SSR and ON/OFF switch. You can also use a 1750/2000 LWD element instead of the 1500.
PJ's diagrams are top notch and I refer to them often!

Hope this helps....
I will be plugging this into a 20amp gfci outlet.

I intend to do both 5 gallon and 2.5 gallon batches on this system. I will be building a BK with a 2000w lwd element that I will simply plug it into the wall on a separate 20 amp circut with a gfci outlet.

I plan to have an outlet that I plug the element into on the control panel so I can just unplug it when I want the element off. Do you think I still need the switch? how much of a safety issue is it?
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinga View Post
I will be plugging this into a 20amp gfci outlet.

I intend to do both 5 gallon and 2.5 gallon batches on this system. I will be building a BK with a 2000w lwd element that I will simply plug it into the wall on a separate 20 amp circut with a gfci outlet.

I plan to have an outlet that I plug the element into on the control panel so I can just unplug it when I want the element off. Do you think I still need the switch? how much of a safety issue is it?
Well..I'm not so sure if it's that much of a safety issue but having the ability to turn off the element by the flick of a switch for whatever reason is very handy at times if needed during the brew session. I have my panel setup this way and find that option very useful at times. It also makes me feel better as it gives me a sense of having more control over the element and it prevents making adjustments all the time on the PID if you wanted to stop the element from firing.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:45 PM   #5
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Tinga,

You did a good job changing the diagram to fit your desired outcome.
I did catch one wiring error though. The way you have the indicator lights wired is the issue. You show them in series with the outlet power and also in series with the power for the PID. They need to be wired between the switch output and the neutral. I took that as an opportunity to draw a custom diagram for you.

Also, I do not have any problem with not having a switch to shut off the power output from the SSR.

I hope this is of some help for you and:
As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J

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Old 08-07-2012, 05:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wottaguy View Post
Well..I'm not so sure if it's that much of a safety issue but having the ability to turn off the element by the flick of a switch for whatever reason is very handy at times if needed during the brew session. I have my panel setup this way and find that option very useful at times. It also makes me feel better as it gives me a sense of having more control over the element and it prevents making adjustments all the time on the PID if you wanted to stop the element from firing.
I agree it would be nice to have and would be useful. But I think for now I'm going to skip it. thanks for the feedback.
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:59 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Tinga,

You did a good job changing the diagram to fit your desired outcome.
I did catch one wiring error though. The way you have the indicator lights wired is the issue. You show them in series with the outlet power and also in series with the power for the PID. They need to be wired between the switch output and the neutral. I took that as an opportunity to draw a custom diagram for you.

Also, I do not have any problem with not having a switch to shut off the power output from the SSR.

I hope this is of some help for you and:
As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J
ah I see. Yes that makes sense. Thank you very much for this diagram. I will post some pictures of this build as it gets under way.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:40 PM   #8
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Your probably going to have a hard time getting a 5 gallon batch boiling. Should be ok for the HERMS side of things though. I do 10 gallon batches with 2 2000w elements right now. Will be moving to 220 here in the near future. For boil, I would either use two elements or your stove and a heatstick. you'll be just fine for 2.5 gallon batches.



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