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Old 05-04-2012, 03:42 AM   #11
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No, you put the led between the 1k ohm resistor and the capacitor. One thing to know about all diodes, including LEDs is that they only pass current one direction- great for dc, but ac presents a problem and will fry them. You may also need a reverse path diode since you are using ac, not dc. But that depends if your led is multidirectional ( by which I mean if your switch or whatever you have is a combination of opposite direction LEDs or just a single led that passes current only one direction.). I have some switches that are blue and green that employ using two leds of opposite direction. They only needed the capacitor and resistor to be installed. I HAD some white led switches that only had a single led in them, they got fried because i needed an auxiliary diode to allow the reverse ac a safe path, but the blue and green switches had two LEDs in reverse direction, so didn't need the correcting diode. Good luck. I'll try to get a picture....

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Old 05-04-2012, 04:48 AM   #12
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Just as a recommendation, you might want to pick up some LEDs to do your "testing" with.

I imagine a switch with integrated LED is not cheap and you don't want to let the magic smoke out of it.

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Old 05-04-2012, 05:07 AM   #13
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Is it this switch?

ledswitch.jpg  
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:42 PM   #14
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It is actually this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/220807727775...84.m1497.l2649

The seller just informed me that he was mistaken and the LED is 12v 10a

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Old 05-07-2012, 03:49 PM   #15
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Any other advice?

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Old 05-07-2012, 04:05 PM   #16
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I cannot see the link but it sounds like you may have a 12VDC rated switch. It should be printed on the switch somewhere. If so, it is not rated for 120VAC and probably not a good idea to use it.

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Old 05-07-2012, 04:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
I cannot see the link but it sounds like you may have a 12VDC rated switch. It should be printed on the switch somewhere. If so, it is not rated for 120VAC and probably not a good idea to use it.
TO view the link just click on it, after it fails to load, highlight and delete everything before this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220807727775?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1497.l2649 then reload with the new link. Unfortunately we have to view links this way until HBT admins fix the fyurl bug.

So the "clicker" must take this data out of the link:
http://www.fyurl.com/rr.php?site=www.homebrewtalk.com&url=

It says it's rated for 10A 120VAC but then just says 12V LED. It seems really inconvenient unless to use this switch unless you already have a 12VDC power source in your panel. For a couple dollars more, Auber sells a good pushbutton switch that you can just use 120VAC or even 240VAC to light the LED.

If you're stuck with these buttons you'll have to use a 12VDC power supply. The cheapest way is to use a "wall wart" but they're also bulky and not intended to be mounted in a panel. Another way would be to purchase a 12vdc power supply. Here's one from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/AC90-265V-DC12...409313&sr=1-45
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:52 PM   #18
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The one from Amazon is only one amp, so you could probably power a few pushbutton switches with it. Hard to say how many exactly because the ebay seller doesn't give any details on the LED.

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Old 05-07-2012, 06:04 PM   #19
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I guess this is what I get for trying to do this on the cheap. The Auber switches are nice but they are also about $10 more a switch. I was hoping I could put something inline to drop it from 110vac to 12vdc but I guess I will just have to use a wall setup. Thanks

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