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Old 07-24-2013, 01:30 AM   #31
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I bought one after seeing the post and have used on one 10 gal brew and a couple trial runs with water. I have it hooked up to a 5500 watt Camco, brings 12 gallon of wort to a boil in about 50 min. Then I back it down about half to 3/4 and it boils consistent for an hour. I have a 120 mm case fan on the heat sink. Im satisfied with it.
I have what appears to be the 6500W version of this and am not sure how to wire it up? Did you run both hot legs through AC IN? and take both out on the other side? Any help on mine?
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:03 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Root64 View Post
I bought one after seeing the post and have used on one 10 gal brew and a couple trial runs with water. I have it hooked up to a 5500 watt Camco, brings 12 gallon of wort to a boil in about 50 min. Then I back it down about half to 3/4 and it boils consistent for an hour. I have a 120 mm case fan on the heat sink. Im satisfied with it.
Thanks for the first hand experience. Couple questions:

1) Was the 50 min from room temp to boil or from mash out temp to boil?
2) Is your kettle insulated?
3) Did you feel the case fan was required or you just did it as a precaution?

Thanks!
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Old 07-24-2013, 11:24 PM   #33
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maybe i dont understand but does this realy save that much money? I only ask because I am planning my own eBIAB. The "dimmer" control is a little less expensive but you still need the GFCI and all the other parts required to make a safe kettle correct?

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Old 07-24-2013, 11:42 PM   #34
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maybe i dont understand but does this realy save that much money? I only ask because I am planning my own eBIAB. The "dimmer" control is a little less expensive but you still need the GFCI and all the other parts required to make a safe kettle correct?
Some people want an analog dial for their boil kettle. A PID with manual mode accomplishes the same function with digital controls.

For single-vessel brewing, you are better off with the PID with manual mode. You get automated temperature control during the mash, then you can digitally "dial in" the power you want for the boil.
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Old 07-24-2013, 11:50 PM   #35
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Gfci protection is the one thing in this equation that you shouldn't even consider being without. Proper grounding and protection could save your life.

Other than that, there are parts you could do without. This system here is sort of a barebones system. Theres no automated temp control or digital temp readouts. Much cheaper, but much more hands on.

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Old 07-25-2013, 12:01 AM   #36
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Another tried and true solution is to secure this 25A Solid State Voltage Regulator - SSVR from Auber Instruments for $30. With this device you can absolutely control the boil with a dial knob. The best part? It is from a very reliable vendor.

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Old 07-25-2013, 12:05 AM   #37
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Thanks for the reply Jeff and P-J. I have other questions but they are not directly related to this thread so I have started on of my own. I think I am going to go with the pid anyhow.

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Old 07-25-2013, 01:24 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by timg View Post
Thanks for the first hand experience. Couple questions:

1) Was the 50 min from room temp to boil or from mash out temp to boil?
2) Is your kettle insulated?
3) Did you feel the case fan was required or you just did it as a precaution?

Thanks!
50 was from mash temp to boil, tap temp to boil was about 15 min longer.
Kettle is not insulated
I was afraid not to use the fan, did want to burn it up.

Hope this helps, thanks.
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:27 AM   #39
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I have what appears to be the 6500W version of this and am not sure how to wire it up? Did you run both hot legs through AC IN? and take both out on the other side? Any help on mine?
Both go through one side and out the other,

Thanks,
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