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Old 03-05-2012, 03:16 PM   #1
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Default 1" couplers or nuts?

My electric kettle is currently setup as weldless. The element gets tighten by a 1" nut & o-ring. I'm thinking of having the nut permanently welded on. Should I consider a 1" coupler instead? And where do I find one of those? Thanks guys!



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Old 03-05-2012, 03:45 PM   #2
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Bargain Fittings has some. I think this is what you are looking for:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=130



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Old 03-05-2012, 04:33 PM   #3
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I welded the nut on, do realize the coupler is tapered pipe thread and the nut is straight pipe thread like the element.

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Old 03-05-2012, 05:30 PM   #4
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I really like my coupler, but like others have said, they are tapered pipe thread. I found a 1" NPT tap at work and was able to tap a half-coupler through so I can use the standard rubber o-ring that comes with my element to see it. Given that, welding the nut on might be a better choice. I soldered mine on using the dimple method which also works very well.

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Old 03-05-2012, 07:08 PM   #5
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There's no benefit to a coupler that I can see. In fact, in many cases the gasket will not seat. My first choice is to go with a welding spud. I'll be adding them to my site in a day or two. If not, next best is a locknut which you already have.

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Old 03-05-2012, 07:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
There's no benefit to a coupler that I can see. In fact, in many cases the gasket will not seat. My first choice is to go with a welding spud. I'll be adding them to my site in a day or two. If not, next best is a locknut which you already have.
Will these be straight thread or NPT?

I have the coupler on my HLT and a nut on my Kettle, I find they both work well, but with the coupler I did the dimpling and brazing method, and with the nut it is just brazed on. With the dimpling method the the coupler is mounted into the kettle wall and secured with the braze, with the nut only the brazing is holding it in place, but the braze is plenty strong.

If you plan on having it tig welded, the welder will fuse the coupler or the nut to the kettle wall. In that case I'd say go with the nut because you will have corresponding thread types and strength of mounting will be equal for the nut or the coupler.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:47 PM   #7
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The spuds are NPT but the thread is about 1/2" deep and generously cut so the few elements I've tested them with will make it all the way down to put the gasket on the sealing face. I have some pics but I'm not in the shop right now....

They have a lot of surface area for those that want to silver solder also.

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Old 03-05-2012, 09:57 PM   #8
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The benefit (for me) of the coupler is that is is what I used to secure my weatherproof box. I dimpled the 1" coupler through a stainless blank, then dimpled through my kettle wall. Silver soldered everything up and leak tested. It makes for a 0 ohm ground lug connection in the box. It was quite a bit of work, but I really liked the strength of the coupler dimpled in the kettle.

I was prepared to tap the 1" coupler to NPS threads, but when I ran the camco 5500 ripple through it easily tightened all the way down to the rubber gasket.

Here's a picture showing what I'm talking about:

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Old 03-05-2012, 10:39 PM   #9
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I used a half coupler welded on my kettle was able to seal it with an o-ring between the face of the element and the coupler.

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Old 03-06-2012, 03:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
The spuds are NPT but the thread is about 1/2" deep and generously cut so the few elements I've tested them with will make it all the way down to put the gasket on the sealing face. I have some pics but I'm not in the shop right now....

They have a lot of surface area for those that want to silver solder also.
At the risk of sounding dumb, what is a spud? How is it different from a coupling? Thanks Bobby!


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