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Old 01-07-2012, 02:34 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by ArcLight View Post
How does rehydrating bad yeast show its bad?
Does it all sink? All float?
Turn color?
The yeast didn't do anything. It stayed the same as how it looked going into the water.
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:16 AM   #12
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It will not ruin your batch at all, but a lot of us on here are big sticklers when it comes to doing everything we can to make the best beer we can. I like others hear have not seen a real difference when it comes to hydrating yeast. I have tried both ways, not that big of a deal in my eyes. That being said it is such a simple step and the reasoning makes sense to me so why not.

The idea behind rehydrating in water is due to the fact that the yeast is dried in a medium that is glueing the cells together. Water will do a better job of releasing the yeast because there is no sugar in solution. When you pitch directly into the sugary wort, the median the yeast are coated in takes longer to dissolve thus holding some of the yeast captive.

Both ways work, one is 1% more work, up to you in the end.

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Old 01-07-2012, 03:38 AM   #13
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FWIW Latest issue of Brew Your Own magazine had an article that indicated it didn't seem to make much difference rehydrating or not.

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Old 01-07-2012, 03:42 AM   #14
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Just wanted to be sure, some people tell me just to open and pour it in. While others swear by hydrating. There are no directions on the pack so i assume room temp water about 70 degrees is ok?
If you want to see if there is some life in the yeast, you need to put it into warm water, between about 95-110. You'll see the yeast sort of "foam up" a little, which means there's life in there.
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:39 AM   #15
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Lots of not so accurate info on dry yeast floats around on the internet. Great info on Danstar site and for the OP, he should check out the Tips PDF

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Old 01-07-2012, 08:15 AM   #16
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You need normal water (not RO or distilled) at 95f-105f.

The hydrogen bonds in the water kind of sit in the cell walls, making them orderly after they get a bit messed up in the dehydration stage. They need to be orderly to stop the osmotic shock of sugar rushing in and destroying the cells.

Also, no need to oxygenate dry yeast if you pitch the correct amount.

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Old 01-07-2012, 11:26 AM   #17
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I brewed 2 batches of beer two days apart with similar OG. Both were pitched with Safale US-05 dry yeast without re-hydration that had been purchased the same day. One took 36 hours to show activity while the other was percolating in 12 hours. While rehydrating may be good practice, your yeast lag time may vary more than you would think.

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Old 01-07-2012, 03:59 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ChillWill View Post
You need normal water (not RO or distilled) at 95f-105f.

The hydrogen bonds in the water kind of sit in the cell walls, making them orderly after they get a bit messed up in the dehydration stage. They need to be orderly to stop the osmotic shock of sugar rushing in and destroying the cells.

Also, no need to oxygenate dry yeast if you pitch the correct amount.
Doesnt it still benefit from oxygenating,with dry yeast? Or are you saying there is absoulutly no benefit to aerating,and its pointless to do it?
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:06 PM   #19
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You absolutely need to aerate your wort regardless of what kind of yeast you're using.

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Old 01-07-2012, 04:14 PM   #20
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You absolutely need to aerate your wort regardless of what kind of yeast you're using.
^THIS^ there seems to be some info floating around about not needing to aerate when pitching dry yeast, i just talked about this on another thread. theoretically, the process of drying yeast gives them what they need from oxygen absorption... key word there, THEORETICALLY. if you don't aerate when using dry yeast, they will kick flavor compounds that may not be desirable in your beer.

people, PLEASE AERATE YOUR WORT. your beer will thank you for it.
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