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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Fermentation & Yeast > Unpleasant hoppy/bitter aftertaste... help please.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:35 PM   #11
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I use this for chlorine http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/wate...r-setup-29145/

If you have chloramine youll either need to use camden tabs or you can use this with the above set up http://www.amazon.com/Pentek-ChlorPl...oramine+filter

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Old 10-04-2012, 07:01 PM   #12
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I'd second (or third) the alkalinity and astringency. You can dose your water with some food grade acid to bring it down for the mash, and use RO water to sparge with. Really, reading up on water treatment would be the next (big) step.

And chloramines added to that may be a problem. They might taste different when combined with astringency. Luckily, the campden tabs are a quick, cheap and easy method to remove it from the water pretty much instantly.

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Old 10-04-2012, 07:52 PM   #13
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OK, I do have campden tablets at home since I've tried making couple small patches of fruit wine. I will definitely employ those next time I brew.

I feel like a total noob when it comes to water treatment. I will definitely do some reading when I get a chance.

I did quick search for water quality reports and found following:
basic report - http://www.amwater.com/files/IL_0315150_TWQ.pdf
and detailed report - http://www.amwater.com/files/IL_0315150_CCR.pdf

I quickly tried plugging in some numbers into the calculator mentioned earlier, but could not find some of the values like calcium and sulfate.
The basic report however does give a pH reading. Would that be enough? Or is everything more complicated then that?

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Old 10-04-2012, 09:14 PM   #14
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You get your water from the same source as I, Lake Michigan. I have found the water to be too hard for light colored beers and I had a run of terrible all-grain batches prior to incorporating water treatments. Milwaukee uses chloramine which I take care of with campden, that one was easy, but the mineral hardness was a bit trickier. I use EZ Water to calculate my brewing salts and RO water additions for each different beer that I make. For darker beers I use straight tap water and add CaCl to get the Ca up to >50 ppm. For light beers I use 100% RO water and add the needed salts to get a good water profile. Doing this has greatly improved my AG beers.

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Old 10-04-2012, 09:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vladens View Post



What I meant was 1) rest at 122, then add hot water to get to 154, and at the end sparge with 170. Sometimes if I can't get my mash to 154 I would drain part of it , heat it up and return to the cooler.
That could be part of it. by draining part of it, and heating it up, it screws with the pH. don't do that!

Skip the protein rest and do a single infusion until your issues are fixed. I almost never do a protein rest.

Skip the pH "stabilizer". It doesn't work and may make issues worse.

Try a batch with RO water and see if your problems are fixed. If so, you know it was the water.
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:32 PM   #16
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Once again, thanks everyone for your replies...

RO is reverse osmosis, right? Where do you guys get RO water from? Do you all buy the equipment for that (doesn't seem cheap) or can I buy the water in store?
We have a RO water cooler/conversion set up, but I don't think I want to fill up multiple gallon jugs at work and bring them home

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Old 10-05-2012, 01:34 PM   #17
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I have an Reverse Osmosis water purifier in my home leftover from my days of keeping a marine aquarium. Many grocery stores and even some Walmarts in areas with bad water sell RO water fairly cheap. I bought the setup below about 7 years ago and have had great luck with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RESIDENTIAL-...item2eb8012e2f

Smaller units can be found on ebay for under $100 (which is about 200 gallons of purchased water).

I forgot to add that I use 2%-3% acid malt (you could also use lactic acid), when called for, to lower my calculated mash pH.

Post your latest batch recipe (or your next one) and I can try to put together the water plan for you.

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