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Old 01-06-2011, 08:43 PM   #1
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Default Roeselare 3763 (Flanders Red) Question

So here's the question, I will be brewing Jamil's Flanders Red recipe soon and want to know how to use this blended yeast. I plan on using 100% Wyeast 3763 right from the start and let it age with oak for 1 year.

If I pitch the 3763 to the primary and it ferments down to maybe 1.020 or so with the standard brewing yeasts in the 3763 and than transfer to secondary to get it off the yeast trub would I lose all the bugs left behind in the primary?? Would the secondary have enough of the bugs to do the final year long bug fermentation, or do I simply leave the beer in the primary carboy the entire year along with the standard yeast trub in the bottom?

Any advise would be helpful, this is the first time using the 3763. Thanks.

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Old 01-06-2011, 08:47 PM   #2
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Personally, I would transfer it off of the trub. If it was a lambic, you could leave it, but a flanders needs to be a bit less funky.

This is why I prefer to add a neutral yeast like us05 at the beginning and then add the bugs when I transfer to secondary. I think you'd lose a lot of yeast to the trub, but I think you'll have enough to get the job done in secondary. You could also try racking a little early, around 1.030 or so. There would still be plenty of yeast in suspension.

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Old 01-07-2011, 02:58 AM   #3
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I would use add about 1/4 of a lb of maltodextrin to the recipe. Ps: I just made a Killer Flanders red, It tasted like s**t till the second year. So, good we went through 10+ gallons at NHC this year. And it needs to be blended with a one year old to be very good.

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Old 01-07-2011, 03:01 AM   #4
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Forgot to mention that this is the most forgiving recipe ever, after 2 years it's going to taste like a Flanders no matter what you do up front. So, get the the right color and your good to go.

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Old 01-07-2011, 03:05 AM   #5
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I brewed JZ's recipe 3 weeks ago. I pitched roselare only. I took a sample and it is good (a bit sour) already. I didn't think the sour would show up until months later.

I intend on adding oak in the next week. I'll let it sit at least 3 or 4 months. I'll taste every month. If I like, I'll bottle.

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Old 01-07-2011, 03:23 AM   #6
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@ yodalegomaster.... if you are talking about the Flanders Red that was at the booth that looked like the hunting cabin ... that was OUTSTANDING !! I probably drank half a gallon that night.

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Old 01-07-2011, 03:50 PM   #7
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I have been fermenting my Flanders red for 100 days in primary (plastic, leaches some O2 in for the Brett) using Roeselare only, and then aging in kegs. At 100 days it's fairly sour and funky, but it takes 16-18 months for the flavor to fully develop. I'm up to 25 gallons, having a full pipeline insures I'll be able to have a continuous supply of beer served at its peak!

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Old 01-07-2011, 04:13 PM   #8
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I'm brewing this in a few weeks; my first attempt at a sour. I was planning on fermenting in a carboy with WLP001 for a couple of weeks and then transferring to a corny (with airlock) and adding the bugs and then putting it away for 18 months. Anyone done this with a corny? I wondering if I should cut the dip tube so that I can get the beer out when it's done. After 18 months, crash cool, transfer to another corny, force carb and bottle.

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Old 01-07-2011, 04:31 PM   #9
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my current flanders was fermented with harvested jolly pumpkin la roja yeast in the primary, then secondary with 3763 and dregs from various sours. I'm about 4-5 months in and just took my first sample in 3 months a few days ago. It had a great sour character. I'd be happy to drink it as is, but plan to leave it for another few months at least.

I don't have much experience, but almost everything i've come across recommends adding dregs from various sours to the secondary to increase the complexity. This has worked well for my thus far.

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Old 01-07-2011, 05:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by spiny_norman View Post
Anyone done this with a corny? I wondering if I should cut the dip tube so that I can get the beer out when it's done. After 18 months, crash cool, transfer to another corny, force carb and bottle.
Two posts back? I don't use an airlock on the keg... it isn't needed. Just pull the pressure relief every month or so whenever you think of it. Brett don't produce as much CO2 as sacc yeast, it won't build up very much pressure at all once the primary fermentation is over. (The amount of pressure is also a pretty good indicator to you how much activity is going on in there since you can't see through stainless)

Don't go cutting into your dip tubes just yet. When you are ready to transfer, don't move the keg -- just hook up a picnic tap and remove a pint (the sediment near the dip tube will come out with it), then push the rest out slowly to a bottling bucket or another keg with CO2. Works like a champ -- the sediment will remain in the keg.

The kegs I use for sours I put a loop of tape around the handle, so I don't accidentally grab that keg and put a non-sour beer in it. Once pediococcus has been in your keg, you will need to replace all the seals and boil the poppets before you can safely put a non-sour beer in the keg.
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