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Old 09-30-2012, 07:50 PM   #1
stbnj
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Default RIS with WLP007 and WLP009

Ok so I am planning to brew a clone of Surly Darkness, this recipe http://hopville.com/recipe/1028050 in particular. I am planning to use WLP007 for the yeast as I have used it before in several beers, I hear that WLP007 is Surly's house yeast and I hear it is great in high gravity beers. FWIW, I also have a packet of Wyeast 1335 which is what NB sells with their Surly clones. I also have a vial of WLP099 that I was considering pitching midway through fermentation. I have the capability of making 2l starters using a stir plate as well, which obviously I will do for this beer. This batch will also be bottle conditioned and half of it will be on bourbon soaked oak chips. My question is

1) Will the WLP007 be enough to not only ferment this beer but then bottle condition it?

2) Should I use the WLP099 at all? My reading on Darkness seems to suggest that part of the appeal is the creamy thick profile and my reading on WLP099 suggest it can over attentuate

3) Should I add something like S05 at bottling? I have had experience with bigger beers where I use yeast that is fine for fermenting the beer but after conditioning for a while the yeast just won't carb up. To combat this I plan to leave it in primary for no more than a month and bottle it, the oaked half will go a bit longer obviously.

Thanks for any help! And also if anyone has tried to brew a Darkness clone or similar big stout please chime in.

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Old 09-30-2012, 08:03 PM   #2
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I did a RIS in the spring and aged it in secondary about 3 months. I bottled it 3 months ago and it never carbed. All I can figure is the yeast died during the long aging process. Next time I'll either add more yeast at bottling or bottle a couple weeks after fermentation like normal and let it condition in the bottle.

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Old 09-30-2012, 10:10 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDFlow View Post
I did a RIS in the spring and aged it in secondary about 3 months. I bottled it 3 months ago and it never carbed. All I can figure is the yeast died during the long aging process. Next time I'll either add more yeast at bottling or bottle a couple weeks after fermentation like normal and let it condition in the bottle.
This was my experience too in my first attempt at a big beer, a barley wine with 1056. That is why I was thinking bottles after a month and let them sit in the closet to condition.
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:58 AM   #4
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If you want thick and creamy, use the 1335. 007 will leave it a little dryer. Both should be able to withstand 10% ABV. If you need to go to 11-12, 1028, 1762, 1728 and 1056 should be able to get there without getting you as dry as 099. The beer will age "faster" in bulk than in bottles, although either way is fine. Adding half a pack of champagne yeast at bottling will ensure carbonation up to 16% ABV.

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