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Old 10-05-2011, 03:24 PM   #11
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Lately I have been thinking about using my canner for brewing. I made up a bunch of starter wort and canned it so I have jars of wort ready to pop open and pour into my flask. No boiling and messing around when I want a starter made.

Then I thought, why not do the same thing with priming sugar? Instead of messign around each time I want to bottle, I can can some STERILE priming solutions to have on hand and instead of boiling and cooling each time, just pop the top and pour it in.

Same thing could be done with spring water. Can it and have it on hand. It's sterile and ready to go. Just get to proper temp and use it to rehydrate with. I think it would work great with those tiny canning jars.

I think boiling and cooling is the biggest PITA for all of these steps. All of these could be done on the same day, making a few hours of work to save for a whole year's worth of brewing, and making it much easier to fit one of these processes in on the spur of the moment.


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Old 10-05-2011, 05:02 PM   #12
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The more detailed methods of rehydration are more important to commercial brewers who need to get consistent results and get the most out of the yeast for cost saving purposes. Although I rehydrate usually, you are still going to get good results with just sprinkling the packet on the wort. That was explained by Cone in the referenced interview,

How do many beer and wine makers have successful fermentations when they
ignore all the above? I believe that it is just a numbers game. Each gram
of Active Dry Yeast contains about 20 billion live yeast cells. If you
slightly damage the cells, they have a remarkable ability to recover in the
rich wort. If you kill 60% of the cell you still have 8 billion cells per
gram that can go on to do the job at a slower rate.
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Old 10-06-2011, 12:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetmac View Post
Hmmm..I believe the recommended range should be within 10F
I checked the Lallemand website and it recommends that the warm yeast-cool wort difference should be max 10C so 18F. I originally thought it was 10F as well. So if I pitch at 65, the yeast mix needs to be 83F. That is a bigger range and so I will put the rehydrated yeast in a mini- cool water bath to bring it down. I still don't want to incrementally add wort.

Pitching warmer yeast hasn't hurt my beer that I know of, but perhaps it could be better. I don't plan to do a side by side, as I don't think it matters that much.


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