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Old 02-24-2014, 07:06 PM   #1
jcorn
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Default Real wort starter: starter gravity/chilling question?

So here is what I am wanting to do. I do 10.5 gallon biab batches. I split into (2) 5.25 gallon batches in my buckets and pitch different yeast to both. I am wanting to try real wort starters but have a few questions.

1. I want to do .5 galllon starters since most of my og's are around 1.062. What is the best way to prep for my rws? I have thought about either pulling 1.25 gallons off of my post boil and dilluting with 1.25 gallons of water to achieve around 1.030 -1.040. I will be adding my starter straight back to my fermenter at high krausen so I really dont want to water my beer down any since I cannot decant. Would it be ok to just snag a 1/2 gallon of 1.062 for my starter? If you do the calculations for a .5 or 1 gallon batch a packet or vial of liquid yeast is way over plenty of yeast cells for the size batch. Although this would be a starter instead of an actual batch the cell stress will be the same either way?

2.Since rws is a new role for me I am also looking to cool a little less. I will still be cooling as quickly as humanly possible but only down to under 140 degrees. I have read that you are same from everything under 140 (dms, added hop bitterness) so please correct me if I am wrong. I will place the chilled wort into my sanitized fermenters, hitting them with a little co2 sealing them up tight and let them chill to room temps over the course of my starter. I should be able to pitch my yeast within 24-48 hours after boil without worry?

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Old 02-25-2014, 02:17 AM   #2
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:45 AM   #3
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If it were me, I would pull .5 gallon of wort from the boil kettle before any hop additions and dilute with .5 gallon of water. Then you have 1 gallon of half strength wort for your two .5 gal starters with no hops to skunk if you use a clear flask on a stir plate. Then pitch at high krausen or let finish and chill and decant. I call it a lazy starter and its gotten me out of a few yeasty jams.
I recommended cooling the beer to 100 degrees F as fast as you can (some don't chill at all just let sit at room temp) then let cool naturally.

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Old 02-25-2014, 10:21 AM   #4
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I do this, I will get my desired pre boil volume in my kettle. Then I will take the final runnings out of my mlt usually around 1.030 or so, as I add extra grain for this process. I split it into 2L bags and freeze them. Bust one out boil for 15 min cool, pitch, yeast, voila, starter!


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Old 02-25-2014, 01:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyhawkins View Post
If it were me, I would pull .5 gallon of wort from the boil kettle before any hop additions and dilute with .5 gallon of water. Then you have 1 gallon of half strength wort for your two .5 gal starters with no hops to skunk if you use a clear flask on a stir plate. Then pitch at high krausen or let finish and chill and decant. I call it a lazy starter and its gotten me out of a few yeasty jams.
I recommended cooling the beer to 100 degrees F as fast as you can (some don't chill at all just let sit at room temp) then let cool naturally.
How would adding back the .5 gallon wort and .5 gallon water effect ibu? I am worried I would be aiming for 55 ibu beer and then adding a total gallon of unhopped wort back would change everything. Would I justify by starting 10-15 points higher for the whole batch to correct the loss?

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Old 02-25-2014, 01:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rorypayne View Post
I do this, I will get my desired pre boil volume in my kettle. Then I will take the final runnings out of my mlt usually around 1.030 or so, as I add extra grain for this process. I split it into 2L bags and freeze them. Bust one out boil for 15 min cool, pitch, yeast, voila, starter!


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That is great!

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Old 02-25-2014, 02:02 PM   #7
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I run an extra gallon threw my tun at the end of brew day and collect. Usually has a grav around 1.02 then I boil it down till I hit 1.04 and save in the fridge for the next brew. Usually end up with around a half gallon. Good for 2-3 starters for me, but perfict for your one. Putting 1.04 into your 1.06 shouldn't dilute it any noticeable amount

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Old 02-25-2014, 02:02 PM   #8
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I would not use a hopped wort in a starter. But if I did I would only do it for the exact same recipe. If not the hop flavor in the starter is going to change the profile of the new beer.

I suggest stepping up and making a stir plate. Make smaller starters using unhopped wort and decant before pitching.

The best way to get the "real wort" is to make a small batch of base grains to get 1.035 to 1.040. Or just use some DME. 100 grams to 1 liter ratio.

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Old 02-25-2014, 02:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terek View Post
I run an extra gallon threw my tun at the end of brew day and collect. Usually has a grav around 1.02 then I boil it down till I hit 1.04 and save in the fridge for the next brew. Usually end up with around a half gallon. Good for 2-3 starters for me, but perfict for your one. Putting 1.04 into your 1.06 shouldn't dilute it any noticeable amount
I guess I could always try to collect my total biab amount (just cut it short to be able to add back that starter amount for total volume) and on the side collect a simple quick one gallon sparge run and boil down on the stove to 1.040

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Old 02-25-2014, 02:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcorn View Post
How would adding back the .5 gallon wort and .5 gallon water effect ibu? I am worried I would be aiming for 55 ibu beer and then adding a total gallon of unhopped wort back would change everything. Would I justify by starting 10-15 points higher for the whole batch to correct the loss?

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If you let the yeast finish then decant the liquid off, you will not have any problems. My starters are done in 12-18 hours in most cases. You can then throw it in the fridge to drop the yeast and 24 hours later (total) you got yourself some beer brewing.
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