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Old 09-13-2013, 08:41 PM   #211
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TD, I'd make a typical starter, maybe 1.050 or 1.060 (a little higher than typical) with any DME and get that spinning on a plate with a new vial of yeast. Aerate it well. After a short duration, add some of the doppel to it. Say for instance, you make a 2L starter, add 1L of your unfinished doppel to it after 12 hours or so, let that spin for a bit and then pitch the whole thing at high krausen. My times may be a bit off, you'll have to judge for yourself based on the activity of the starter. This will get it slightly acclimated to your unfinished doppel, but won't stress the yeast too much initially. I've had luck getting a few extra points out of a beer by doing this - I'm not saying this is the best way or the right way, but it's a method I've used with a little success. The key is to get active yeast back in the beer, but active yeast that are somewhat used to the environment you're putting them in.

IMO your only other option is to pitch on a healthy yeast cake from a beer that did attenuate fully (something you probably don't have). I haven't done this, but I've read on here that some people, that's the only way they can unstick a stuck ferment.

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Old 09-13-2013, 08:53 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickyDick View Post
Any suggestions on de-aerating the conical sample when I pull some for a hydrometer reading? Shaking, repeated pouring between vessels?
This is a pain in the butt on every lager I make. 50 degree fermented beer still has a lot of trapped CO2 in it when you need to warm it up to 60 or 68 to take a reading. I'd be willing to hear suggestions too, but I've put my sample in an empty (and dry) water bottle (threaded cap) and shook it up, open the cap to let off the pressure and repeat. I've also put my hand over the top of the sampling tube and shook it (messy), I've also just let it degas on its own for a little while and then taken a measurement. Still haven't gotten a good solution.
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:38 PM   #213
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I took a sample, put it into a pint size mason jar and shook the hell out of it. It was STILL too carbonated. I let it sit about 36 hours in the basement (an AWFUL 80 degrees in FL!) and then took a reading and adjusted the reading 1.0315 for temp to get 1.034. It appeared fully decarbonated. I've also taken refractometer readings, and those seem all over the board after corrections. It IS a PITA though...

I ordered a pack of SafLager today. When it arrives, I will rehydrate it in boiled/pressure cooked water that has cooled, and then into a pint size mason jar also sterilized in the pressure cooker. I'll prep another mason jar to collect some fermenting wort from the fermenter and add that to the mason jar and apply the lid loosely. I know it isn't recommended to make a "starter" with dry yeast, but in this case I am just activating it I consider, since the beer is nearly finished fermenting. question is, should I oxygenate this "starter" or add a drop of olive oil ?

Thanks

TD

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Old 09-13-2013, 09:47 PM   #214
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I've never been a believer of the olive oil thing, so I'm not the one to ask....

I don't think this is your typical "starter", so I think activating it and getting it going is exactly what this situation needs, so I like your plan. I'd start it in fresh (no alcohol present) wort, then add your doppel after it's been going for a bit.

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Old 09-14-2013, 07:50 PM   #215
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Any suggestions on de-aerating the conical sample when I pull some for a hydrometer reading? Shaking, repeated pouring between vessels?
This thread has a suggestion from AJ Delange:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/doe...ravity-286783/
I use a modification of his procedure that seems to work - I pour back and forth between two glasses 20 times. Whatever works.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:46 PM   #216
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I'd like clarification of the botteling process.

Do you bottle after lagaring?

Once bottled, do they just condition at ale temp or should they go back into cold storage?

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Old 01-04-2014, 01:31 PM   #217
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I'd like clarification of the botteling process.

Do you bottle after lagaring?

Once bottled, do they just condition at ale temp or should they go back into cold storage?
Lagering is supposed to be done before bottling/packaging.

TD
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:56 PM   #218
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At the homebrew level, it can be done before or after bottling.

If bottled after lagering, it is a good idea to add fresh yeast or else risk waiting a long time for the bottles to carbonate.

If bottled first, allow sufficient time for carbonation before dropping the temps down into the 30's for lagering.

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Old 01-04-2014, 06:49 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-star View Post
At the homebrew level, it can be done before or after bottling.

If bottled after lagering, it is a good idea to add fresh yeast or else risk waiting a long time for the bottles to carbonate.

If bottled first, allow sufficient time for carbonation before dropping the temps down into the 30's for lagering.
You'd definitely get more sediment if you lagered in a bottle, though.
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:16 PM   #220
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I don't brew lagers all that often, but when I do, I go straight from primary to keg (I only bottle limited amounts, off a keg with a CP filler).

I stick it in the back of my keezer and use a picnic tap to draw a couple ounces off every few days until I get a pretty clear pour. Then I just let it sit. I taste it every couple of weeks until I think it's ready for prime time

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