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Old 01-27-2013, 01:24 AM   #11
beerbeerbeer123
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Why doyou need a highly attenuative yeast for bottling? Just about any yeast will work. I usually use US05.
Cause i want dry beer
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:29 AM   #12
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The yeast you add at bottling isn't going to add much character. I would suggest a neutral ale yeast, us05 as suggested would be my go to.

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Old 01-27-2013, 01:50 AM   #13
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Cause i want dry beer
But you're bottling. The beer isn't going to change character due to the yeast you use to bottle.
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:00 AM   #14
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But you're bottling. The beer isn't going to change character due to the yeast you use to bottle.
Im gonna cellar the beer..You can drop some points by aging big beers..I see what you are saying cause most of the attenuation is done during primary..but my plan is to make a 1069 which is not a big beer OG by any means but want to get it down to 1004 which will give me a Est ABV of 8.5%..i figure my FG after primary will hopefully be lower then 1.008..so i wanted to try adding a highly attenuating yeast to eat up all the priming sugar and during some extented storing hopefully and i say hopefully the yeast will continue eating residuals and bring me down to 1004..Duvel clone btw
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:02 AM   #15
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Im gonna cellar the beer..You can drop some points by aging big beers..I see what you are saying cause most of the attenuation is done during primary..but my plan is to make a 1069 which is not a big beer OG by any means but want to get it down to 1004 which will give me a Est ABV of 8.5%..i figure my FG after primary will hopefully be 1.008..so i wanted to try adding a highly attenuating yeast to eat up all the priming sugar and during some extented storing hopefully and i say hopefully the yeast will continue eating residuals and bring me down to 1004..Duvel clone btw
Yes i know bottle bombs may happen but to combat that im gonna try and get the FG even lower before bottling and use champange or belgian cork bottles..may have fountains ..this is just part of the fun this hobby brings ..to experiment
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:24 AM   #16
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Yes i know bottle bombs may happen but to combat that im gonna try and get the FG even lower before bottling and use champange or belgian cork bottles..may have fountains ..this is just part of the fun this hobby brings ..to experiment
Experiment away, but I think your basic premise is off. The beer should be at FG before you bottle. I mean, what do you have to gain by trying to drop the gravity in the bottle instead of in the fermenter?
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Old 01-27-2013, 03:31 AM   #17
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Experiment away, but I think your basic premise is off. The beer should be at FG before you bottle. I mean, what do you have to gain by trying to drop the gravity in the bottle instead of in the fermenter?
That a valid point..i quess i gotta try and get it to 1004 before i bottle and use any cheap neutral ale yeast and still put in the duvel dregs for the sake of experiment..well thanks for chiming in..cheers
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:23 AM   #18
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Hello everyone..What is a good strain of yeast to use for bottling a BGSA that has a neutral flavor that will not intrude on the primary fermentation yeast strain?..also a yeast that attenuates very highly? I heard people use wine yeast,champange yeast,nottingham etc...input would be awesome
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Use the classic bgsa strain Wyeast 1388/wlp570. Very poorly flocculent but highly attenuative. It went to 92% apparent attenuation in a duvel clone I made.

If your goal is to simply carbonate a beer, try S-33. That's a common commercial bottling strain. Danstar makes one called CBC too.

I think there is something ( don't ask what) that makes bottle conditioned beers different. They're a living thing. I'm not about to be able to prove it, but I think the bottling strain does make a difference in certain beers. Would Duvel be Duvel if they bottled with a neutral strain?
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