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Old 11-21-2009, 02:12 PM   #1
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Default Aeration with dry yeast

Hey all,

My next brewday, hopefully tomorrow, I'll be using dry yeast for the first time. I've heard great things about us05.

In my daily reading of HBT, I ran across a post that indicated I didn't need to aerate the wort when using dry yeast. That sounded improbable to me, and a search of the archives didn't really tell me very much.

So what's the straight dope on aerating with dry yeast? I'm inclined to aerate anyway, because I can't see how it would hurt, but I'm curious.

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Old 11-21-2009, 02:37 PM   #2
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I have been using us-05 since day 1 of brewing. Havent changed yeast yet.
Very forgiveing in temp range. 60-75.

Basicly what i have done is, After you pitch your yeast, Dunk my hand into sanitiser, Put hand on top the the carboy and rock it back in forth mixing the yeast with the wort till i count to 10. Slap a blow off tube or airlock on it. Done.

Cant say enough about this yeast, Done many differnt styles and all ranging in differnt OG and it might have taken a week + a few days to get all the ferment done....But it chugs along and does a great job. I know there is brewerys that useing nothing but us-05 in all there beers, so i dont think you could ask for better considering the price. If you wash your yeast...Even cheaper...

Hope this helps

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Old 11-21-2009, 02:43 PM   #3
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Always aerate to your best ability before pitching the yeast. The yeasties love it.

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Old 11-21-2009, 02:54 PM   #4
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Yeah, I'll be aerating with my paint stirrer on my cordless drill. Works wonderfully.

Plus, I'll be washing. I'm trying to minimize my per-brewday cost as much as possible. I wanna go to Mid Country Malt in Chi-town and pick up a bag of 2-row, wash yeast, buy hops from hopsdirect.com, and get specialty grains from my LHBS. I figure if I can get down to maybe $15-$20 for 5-gallon batches I'll be golden.

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Old 11-21-2009, 02:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HomerJR View Post
Yeah, I'll be aerating with my paint stirrer on my cordless drill. Works wonderfully.

Plus, I'll be washing. I'm trying to minimize my per-brewday cost as much as possible. I wanna go to Mid Country Malt in Chi-town and pick up a bag of 2-row, wash yeast, buy hops from hopsdirect.com, and get specialty grains from my LHBS. I figure if I can get down to maybe $15-$20 for 5-gallon batches I'll be golden.
You will get flack from people about the cost-cutting exercises, but you are speaking my language. For me, cost cutting is an interesting part of the hobby.
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Old 11-21-2009, 03:06 PM   #6
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Evidently there is some info on Danstar's website that indicates you don't need to aerate dry yeast...there's supposedly sufficient stuff in the yeast cells already. But honestly you have to consider the source. We're talking about Danstar here, the makers of Nottingham with it's notorious tendency to suffer the 1.020 curse.

So honestly, I'm going to take that info with a grain of salt....I will aerate and not stop doing so....I feel that it can't hurt if you do it, it could only help....

Plus, I have never been happy with the results Notty or Windsor, and use Fermentis dry yeast for the majority of my beers...I'd say I use US-05 for about 90% of my beers.

And this is what it says on their website;

Quote:
Oxygen is required to assure a healthy cell multiplication. Oxygenation is
either made by top filling and splashing wort against the wall of the
fermenter, aeration or direct oxygen injection. It is usually recommended
to make the oxygenation on cooled wort. At this stage hygiene is essential
since bacteria may develop during the aeration. Oxygen should only be
added in the first twelve hours of fermentation (9 ppm). Adding oxygen
during late fermentation will increase aldehyde levels and amplify diacetyl
formation. High levels of oxygen will suppress ester production. It has been
noticed that oxygen can increase SO² concentrations in some worts.
BTW, this PDF. from them is great info for people. http://www.fermentis.com/FO/pdf/Tips-Tricks.pdf
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Old 11-21-2009, 03:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HomerJR View Post
Yeah, I'll be aerating with my paint stirrer on my cordless drill. Works wonderfully.

Plus, I'll be washing. I'm trying to minimize my per-brewday cost as much as possible. I wanna go to Mid Country Malt in Chi-town and pick up a bag of 2-row, wash yeast, buy hops from hopsdirect.com, and get specialty grains from my LHBS. I figure if I can get down to maybe $15-$20 for 5-gallon batches I'll be golden.
Biermuncher is a fan of washing and harvesting his dry yeast....but remember, next time you use it you treat it like LIQUID YEAST, and if not pitching directly on top of a cake, then you need to treat it like liquid and make a starter.
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Old 11-21-2009, 04:59 PM   #8
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Consider the purpose of aeration....you want to get O2 into the wort that the yeast can use to synthesize sterols, which they use to build cells walls for cell growth. But when you pitch dry yeast, you pitch so many cells that little growth is needed. So, you don't really need to aerate, or aerate as much, when using dry yeast. But it certainly won't hurt, either.

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Old 11-21-2009, 11:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvy View Post
Biermuncher is a fan of washing and harvesting his dry yeast....but remember, next time you use it you treat it like LIQUID YEAST, and if not pitching directly on top of a cake, then you need to treat it like liquid and make a starter.
Duly noted, Revvy.
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Old 11-22-2009, 02:22 AM   #10
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S-05 is made by Fermentis. Follow their instructions for pitching and consider this from their website regarding aeration:

Quote:
7/ Does the wort need Oxygenation/ aeration?
As the yeast is grown aerobically, the yeast is less sensitive on first pitch. Aeration is recommended to ensure full mixing of the wort and yeast.
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