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-   -   Adding another pack of dry yeast? (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/adding-another-pack-dry-yeast-388089/)

JayMac 02-07-2013 03:58 PM

Adding another pack of dry yeast?
 
Hey guys,

So as I wrote somewhere else in the forum, I brewed last Saturday and overshot my OG... by A LOT. My grain didn't come milled, so I borrowed my buddies. A beer that was supposed to end up at 1.045 with my previous 65% efficiency, ended up being 1.060!

Although this is a good thing which boosts my brewing confidence, it certainly didn't provide a boost to my S-05 yeast. I pitched one pack without re-hydrating (I was pressed for time and forgot), so I just sprinkled on top. Although that isn't normally as issue... it might be for a beer that is already too strong for a single pack of yeast. Since Saturday I haven't seen my airlock bubble, however the level of sanitizer in the airlock is offset, showing that there is SOME pressure buildup. I opened the lid for a peak and there is in deed krausen, so some level of fermentation is taking place.

However, my question is: should I go buy another pack of dry yeast, rehydrate it, and pour it in? It's been 5 days, so I have no idea how that would affect the brew. Hoping I can get a few expert opinions as this is only my 4th AG batch.


Also, I have another concern about the starter I just made for my IPA I'll be brewing on Saturday. It seems that there hasn't been much activity in my 2L Erlenmeyer, which is a little troubling. I'll outline my procedure, and hopefully someone can alleviate my worries or let me know where I went wrong/let me know if it's necessary for me to go buy more yeast

1. add 1L water, add 125g DME, fill up to 1300mL mark (aiming for a 1250mL starter). I did not sanitize the flask, just cleaned it. I brought this to a boil, then kept it boiling for 10 minutes. I then (stupidly) put on the airlock and submerged into very cold water. Now, you don't need to tell me the laws of physics here, cooling would reduce the pressure of the heated vapors inside the flask, and the differential pressure would pull what it could out of the airlock; and that's exactly what it did. About 1oz of 12ppm iodophore (about 1tsp to 1.57L) fell into my cooling wort. Once the wort was at about 75F, I grabbed some sanitized tin foil, took off the airlock, covered the top with the tinfoil, and shook the wort vigorously. I re-sanitized the airlock, pitched the yeast, put in the airlock, and then I was done. It's been 24 hours and I haven't detected any activity. In my last starter, there was activity within 8 hours, which is why I'm worried, because I think my sanitation practices have gotten better!

Thanks for listening me ramble on, and I know some of this is just some newb homebrewing jitters. I just don't want to pitch some non-viable, low count yeast to a big IPA, or have a beer which doesn't ferment properly and doesn't finish as dry and hoped.

Thanks again!
Cheers,
Jay

MachineShopBrewing 02-07-2013 06:41 PM

Ok, First thing is- You don't want or need an airlock on your starter. The sanitized tin foil will suffice. Not sure about the iodophor and what affect that will have as I have never used it. Just stick with the foil next time.

If that was an 11 gram pack that should be plenty of yeast. If you are worried about it, I would take a gravity reading. But, I am sure you are fine and should just leave it. If it has krausen, you are fermenting.

Cue the airlock is not a fermentation gauge posts........:rolleyes:

bferullo 02-07-2013 06:44 PM

Yeah I usually don't rehydrate (my wort rehydrates my yeast :) ). Also at 1.060 and an 11 gram packet you should be fine. When using dry yeast I rarely pitch more than one packet.

In my experience, S05 has either taken off like a monster or lagged a few days. But it always finishes nicely.

JayMac 02-07-2013 07:08 PM

Thanks guys, that makes me feel a little better about everything! Is there any way to gauge how much yeast is in the starter? Would a gravity reading after focculuating the yeast in the fridge be the most reliable test?

I tried the tin foil last time, but I figured I'd give the airlock a shot. I've read the debate on which one is better, but from my own knowledge of mass transfer and biological reactions, I believe the little amount of O2 that will actually pass the foil and enter the flask is nearly insignificant in comparison the the O2 in the headspace before fermentation, and that dissolved into the wort. To me, the risk of contamination due to fruit flies and/or dirty air seems to outweigh the benefits of slightly higher O2 levels.

I appreciate the comment, but I think for the time being I'm going to see how the airlock works for my starters.

JayMac 02-09-2013 12:23 AM

Hey again,


So I put the starter in the fridge so the yeast could floc for decanting tomorrow. I checked the gravity of the wort and somehow it's reading 1.050.....

I'm not sure that's possible. I thought 1g DME to 10mL would produce a 1.040 wort. However, there is some carbonation which might make up for it.

Anyways, this is all something to consider later. Because the starter has probably not produced any additional yeast, I'm gonna need to pitch more. My LHBS doesn't have any of the California ale yeast I'm using. Can I just pitch some Nottingham or S05? Or will the two different yeast strains conflict?

PS, It's set in stone I'm brewing tomorrow, so I need someway to pitch more yeast ASAP!

Thanks!

duboman 02-09-2013 12:59 AM

No airlock on the starter:)

The purpose of the starter is to grow yeast, yeast needs O2 to grow and replicate. Airlock prevents O2 from getting in.

Use the sanitized foil to lightly cover the top, shake starter every time you walk by it or use a stir plate.

Most starters will ferment out in 18-24 hours with healthy yeast.

BTW, dry yeast does not require a starter, simply rehydrate


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