What do you think of this kettle?

I am casually shopping for a new brew kettle and I see this from OBK http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/16_G..._Brew_Kettle_p/brew-kettle-16gal-advanced.htm

It seems so inexpensive that I worry it's cheaply made and will not last. Does anyone have this kettle?

I don't have that kettle, but the price is appealing. Especially for the volume. I have a cheap Bayou Classic 10 gallon kettle with thermometer and ball lock valve I gave a little over $220 for.

My only advice is this. If you pull the trigger and buy this, go with the smaller probe thermometer if you are going to do BIAB brewing with it. You will be less likely to damage your brew bag.

Also, if you buy it, let us know how it works out for you.

Chadwick said:

I don't have that kettle, but the price is appealing. Especially for the volume. I have a cheap Bayou Classic 10 gallon kettle with thermometer and ball lock valve I gave a little over $220 for.

My only advice is this. If you pull the trigger and buy this, go with the smaller probe thermometer if you are going to do BIAB brewing with it. You will be less likely to damage your brew bag.

Also, if you buy it, let us know how it works out for you.

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I am tempted to get it....I do BIAB now, but am working on converting a cooler into a mash tun. I am pressed for brewing time and would like to do 10 gal batches. Makes more sense......a pot is all I need.

The only thing about that pot that bothers me is that I don't see any indention rings to help reinforce it for strength. Also, I can't see how well the welds on the handles look either. The last thing you want is a pot that will flex and stuff if you have to move it while it's full of heavy liquid. Imagine the horror of a spot weld on the handle breaking while trying to move it while full of hot wort.

Then again, it might be fine. The thing to remember is this, you usually get what you pay for. I prefer to pay a little extra when I can for the peace of mind of knowing I don't have to worry. Then again, I completely understand the desire to nab a bargain and save some money.

I think your brewing process and setup will determine if this is a good buy or not. If you are like me and move the kettle around while it is full of liquid, I would really want to see those welds. Possibly even handle it full of water to see how it behaves. These things are not possible when shopping online. If your process doesn't have the kettle moving from place to place while full of hot wort, then go for it.

I move my kettle once while it is full of hot wort. From the stove top to the counter next to the sink where I connect my copper cooler line at the end of the boil. It is the only part of my process where I get anxious. I am very fearful that the spot welds on the handles of my Bayou Classic kettle might break. If they did, brewing at home would come to a stop by order of SWMBO. While this isn't likely to happen, it is only 5-6 gallons of wort I'm moving. When you step up to 10-12 gallons, that changes everything. A simple spot weld may not cut it.

I would inquire as to whether those handles are designed to move the kettle while it is at full capacity. You might find they are simply there to handle it while empty.

Then again, I might just be over thinking this. I would sure hate to see anyone get hurt. That is ultimately my primary concern.

Chadwick said:

Then again, it might be fine. The thing to remember is this, you usually get what you pay for. I prefer to pay a little extra when I can for the peace of mind of knowing I don't have to worry. Then again, I completely understand the desire to nab a bargain and save some money.

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I think with a 15 gallon, assuming at least 10 gallons of hot liquid, I would suggest no one move 40 # plus kettle of +150 f hot liquid by hand regardless of the quality of the handles (welded or riveted).

Even with the +40# of mash grains and absorbed liquid I suggest that folks either let it cool to about 120 f or muck out the majority of the spent grans by hand...on scope at a time. Like you said...safety first.

Onkel_Udo said:

I think with a 15 gallon, assuming at least 10 gallons of hot liquid, I would suggest no one move 40 # plus kettle of +150 f hot liquid by hand regardless of the quality of the handles (welded or riveted).

Even with the +40# of mash grains and absorbed liquid I suggest that folks either let it cool to about 120 f or muck out the majority of the spent grans by hand...on scope at a time. Like you said...safety first.

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10 gallons weighs about twice that much. Water is 8.3 pounds a gallon, so we are talking about moving almost 90 pounds of boiling hot liquid, not just 40. A 5 gallon pot weighs over 40 pounds when full.

theseeker4 said:

10 gallons weighs about twice that much. Water is 8.3 pounds a gallon, so we are talking about moving almost 90 pounds of boiling hot liquid, not just 40. A 5 gallon pot weighs over 40 pounds when full.

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Yeah...it was 4 AM...still sleepy.

Keep in mind that OBK is a Canadian site and the prices are in CDN dollars. SO if you're from the US the price is even better.

Onkel_Udo said:

Yeah...it was 4 AM...still sleepy.

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Lol, trust me, I know the feeling!

Chadwick said:

I move my kettle once while it is full of hot wort. From the stove top to the counter next to the sink where I connect my copper cooler line at the end of the boil. It is the only part of my process where I get anxious. I am very fearful that the spot welds on the handles of my Bayou Classic kettle might break.

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My exact situation. I have the 8.5 gallon Bayou Classic - 5 gallon batches. If there was a way to avoid having to move a kettle full of boiling hot wort across the kitchen, I'd do that instead. Like you, it's the only part of brewing beer that makes me anxious.

If I were to get a new kettle I would probably go this route:
http://www.cobrewingsystems.com/products/brew-kettle

smccarter said:

My exact situation. I have the 8.5 gallon Bayou Classic - 5 gallon batches. If there was a way to avoid having to move a kettle full of boiling hot wort across the kitchen, I'd do that instead. Like you, it's the only part of brewing beer that makes me anxious.

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Huh, bet there is a solution: immersion chiller, 5 gallon bucket and $10 pond pump? Total investment = $55 (depending on copper cost).

One thing to consider about this pot is that they dont give you any wall thickness numbers so it may be pretty cheap.

Onkel_Udo said:

Huh, bet there is a solution: immersion chiller, 5 gallon bucket and $10 pond pump? Total investment = $55 (depending on copper cost).

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I brew in the kitchen. I move the kettle from the stove, across the kitchen - about 10 feet, onto the counter, hook the IC up and start cooling the wort.

I've considered longer hoses, but having that length of hose running across the kitchen just screams disaster.

As long as the welds hold on the kettle I'll be alright. It's the only really dangerous part of my brew day.

theck said:

If I were to get a new kettle I would probably go this route:
http://www.cobrewingsystems.com/products/brew-kettle

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Gee....that does look better. I'm looking at their options and I see 1.5 trip-clamp and 1/2 threaded couplers. What are these and what would I chose if I go this route?

Have that kettle for e-biab, works well. I never lift by the handles if the kettle is full. The handle welds are cheap.

Gotta ask why you don't get a concord or bayou classic 15 gallon kettle and add the accessories yourself? You can do that so much cheaper than buying something that's been pre-fab'd. Better yet, just get a 20 gallon kettle and call it a day.

Marc77 said:

Gotta ask why you don't get a concord or bayou classic 15 gallon kettle and add the accessories yourself? You can do that so much cheaper than buying something that's been pre-fab'd. Better yet, just get a 20 gallon kettle and call it a day.

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I'm not familiar with all there is....I'll look Into it.

Happydad1689 said:

Gee....that does look better. I'm looking at their options and I see 1.5 trip-clamp and 1/2 threaded couplers. What are these and what would I chose if I go this route?

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1.5 tri clamp is sanitary (no visible threads) you need the ti clamps and seals to told it all together.



You can tri clamp to npt (threaded) to work with just about everything. Personally I would do 1.5 tri myself, while NPT is cheaper overall, the tri clamp is a cleaner and easier to setup, plus remove the clamps and it all comes apart. On NPT you have to unscrew it all, retape, screw on and hope you don't cross thread or tighten too much.

These are nice as well and include the clamp, thermometer, valve and gaskets... I like the CO brewing a little more because I can add in a return and a 1.5 Tri for an electric element, more customizable.
http://www.bru-gear.com/ProBoiler-15-Gallon-Kettle_p_14.html