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Old 07-20-2012, 09:26 PM   #21
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By water treatment I mean adding minerals to adjust the water chemistry. Right now I use RO water with mineral additions for the initial strike, but must use the house water supply for sparge. My RO system has a tank, but it can't supply the 7 gallons or so of sparge water needed for a 10 gallon batch in a timely fashion.

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Old 07-21-2012, 12:49 AM   #22
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I will admit that i havent taken the plunge in to all the complexitys of water treatment yet but i hope to before long, does it have to be done before the water is heated? I would say that for your system i would just throw in a beverage cooler as a "treatment tank". It should only loose a degree or two and it would keep you from doing anything to complicated.

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Old 07-21-2012, 12:48 PM   #23
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The main point of going to a "tankless" system is to eliminate the HLT and heat the sparge as you use it, from house water pressure, no pump involved. This precludes the addition of water treatment chemicals to the sparge water. That's why I am thinking of reverting to a more traditional 3 vessel system.

At present, I adjust the water chemistry of the strike water for the mash, but end up using straight tap water for the sparge.

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Old 07-21-2012, 01:29 PM   #24
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That's why I am thinking of reverting to a more traditional 3 vessel system.
Here's my HLT setup. I put a shelf about chest high on the wall in my brew area, so no pump required. Picked up the 15 gallon ss pot on a close-out sale for $50. The thermostatically controlled 3000W immersion heater came from eBay. Waited and looked for a long time, but lucked out and got it for the minimum bid of $1 (plus about $10 shipping.) For stirring, on top you can barely see the 135 rpm gearmotor that came from Surplus Center for $6. Even with fittings and site glass from Bobby_M, I'm at well under $100. Well worth it to be able to dial in the temperature for strike, infusion or sparge water and have it ready whenever I need it.
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Old 07-21-2012, 04:17 PM   #25
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For stirring, on top you can barely see the 135 rpm gearmotor that came from Surplus Center for $6.
AnOldUR, what do you attach to the motor to stir with?
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Old 07-21-2012, 05:29 PM   #26
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AnOldUR, what do you attach to the motor to stir with?
Just a homemade paddle made from stuff I had laying around the shop. The notch in the lid is because I got lucky and this lid also fits on my boil pot. The notch is clearance for my IC. The constant stirring almost cut my chill time in half.
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:02 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckO View Post
The main point of going to a "tankless" system is to eliminate the HLT and heat the sparge as you use it, from house water pressure, no pump involved. This precludes the addition of water treatment chemicals to the sparge water. That's why I am thinking of reverting to a more traditional 3 vessel system.

At present, I adjust the water chemistry of the strike water for the mash, but end up using straight tap water for the sparge.
I see what your saying and I understand why you might want to go back to three vessels. It is definitely one of the drawbacks to going tankless but i would bet that with some ingenuity a way could be found to treat the water before heating if that is infant what is required.

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Here's my HLT setup. I put a shelf about chest high on the wall in my brew area, so no pump required. Picked up the 15 gallon ss pot on a close-out sale for $50. The thermostatically controlled 3000W immersion heater came from eBay. Waited and looked for a long time, but lucked out and got it for the minimum bid of $1 (plus about $10 shipping.) For stirring, on top you can barely see the 135 rpm gearmotor that came from Surplus Center for $6. Even with fittings and site glass from Bobby_M, I'm at well under $100. Well worth it to be able to dial in the temperature for strike, infusion or sparge water and have it ready whenever I need it.
That is a great HLT AnOldUR! I've never seen an immersion heater with a thermostatic controller. Do you have a build thread for it? How precisely can you control the temperature with that unit?
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:27 AM   #28
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Do you have a build thread for it? How precisely can you control the temperature with that unit?
The build was simply a matter of drilling a hole for the pipe fitting and putting a nut and o-ring on. There's a temperature probe between the loop for the heating element. That black knob on the housing sets the temperature. It easily holds the temperature within a couple of degrees. The manufacture is Ogden.
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:32 AM   #29
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Now that is a good piece of equipment AnOldUS! Ill look in to that also. Does it run on 240?

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