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Old 03-19-2009, 01:57 PM   #11
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omfgstainless!!!1

I just got a 50 qt SS on ebay for $100 including shipping. That reminds me, I need to leave feedback...

My 5 gal (actually 4, I didn't sparge enough) of wort looked almost pitiful in there. I should do a 10 in a batch or two just to use all of it.

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Old 03-19-2009, 02:04 PM   #12
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Since you mentioned you will be brewing stovetop, I would guess an aluminum kettle would boil a greater volume due to better heat transfer.

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Old 03-19-2009, 04:13 PM   #13
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Why do you suggest at least 10 gallons for AG brewing? You can boil 6.5 gallons of wort in an 8 gallon pot can't you?

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Old 03-19-2009, 04:36 PM   #14
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Yeah, but what if you want to do 10 gallons for something? It's nice to be able to.

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Old 03-19-2009, 07:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigafoos View Post
Yeah, but what if you want to do 10 gallons for something? It's nice to be able to.
Yeah, you are right. I guess the way McBrew was saying it, it sounded like you might want a 10 gallon pot specifically if you are doing standard 5 gal batches of AG. I got it now.

That SS kettle on ebay for $100 you posted up there^ Sigafoos looks sweet. Just buy that right off the bat, and it should take care of whatever you want to do for decades. It's 12.5 gallons, so you can do 10 gallon batches. I might buy that. Is that a quality product? Have you received it yet?

Do the dimensions make a difference? Would you lean towards something short and fat instead of something tall and more narrow (turkey fryer)?
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Old 03-19-2009, 07:18 PM   #16
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I used it on my batch this past Sunday and it worked fine. The handles just look welded on instead of being bolted in, so maybe it's not as secure as it could be? Eh.

This next paragraph comes from 'a dude thinking about the topic' and not 'someone who knows what they're talking about': it seems like it'd be easier to heat a short/fat pot, since the flame can heat more of the surface at once, but then it also seems like you'd get more boiloff because there's more surface area at the top.

Either way, it didn't fit inside the lip of my turkey fryer, so it was resting on top. Not the safest thing, but not dangerous either I'd say.

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Old 03-19-2009, 09:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q2XL View Post
Thanks for the replies.

Any thoughts on the ball valves?
How do you plan to chill you wort? If you want to use a counter-flow chiller a ball-valve is almost essential. If your using an immersion chiller then you can certainly do without it.

Personally I use an IC, then use a racking cane to siphon off the wort once its been chilled. Makes cleaning the pot easier because there is no valve that needs cleaning.

If you go with an aluminum pot, drilling a hole for the ball valve later on is easy. Stainless is little harder to drill, but still possible.
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Old 03-20-2009, 12:27 PM   #18
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Obv stainless will be heavier. TBH, I wouldn't feel comfortable with a 10 gal SS pot on a stovetop even if it only had 6 gal in it. Not that the frame can't take it but the weight is all on the heating element (on my stove) and it just doesn't look safe enough to me.

FWIW, I don't have any fermenters bigger than 6 gal so I never brew bigger than 6 gal batches and my 8 gal. SS pot is the perfect size. Besides, my lauter tun wouldn't hold all that grain/water anyway. So going to larger batches for me would take some doing. Also, I like to brew so I'd prefer to brew smaller batches so I can brew more often. So I don't foresee going to larger batches...but those are probably 'famous last words' before going to larger batches.

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Old 12-01-2009, 03:45 AM   #19
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Don't skimp on the kettle. It is the most important part of your kit. I have an 8 gallon with a two piece ball valve from morebeer and I love it. It is really satisfying to run the chilled wort directly into the fermenter. I might buy the 15 gallon if I were doing it over again though. Once you get into the 6 hour brew day with all grain it would be nice to be making twice the amount of beer in the same amount of time.

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