Sierra Nevada Clone
On my third batch and becoming disenchanted with the kit concept. Still searching for one that tastes like microbrewed beer. The Alt batch I made came out weak and I am thinking about dumping it to use the bottles for a better attempt. Would appreciate it if anyone has a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone recipe to share. Not ready for all grain yet, so it still has to be somewhat basic, unless I just answered my question of not tasting like real beer unless I do all grain!
I'm not sure if this is exactly a sierra nevada clone, but it sounds pretty close to me. I got this off of the Brew Your Own website (an article describing the 10 easiest beer styles).
We start most new homebrewers with an American Pale Ale because of its simple nature and great flavor. The style of American pale ale for the AHA is characterized by American-variety hops used to produce high hop bitterness, flavor and aroma. This bold hop flavor balances out with smooth low to medium maltiness. Good pale ale starts with light extract or pale malt and crystal malt for color and sweetness.
After this, the all important component is hops, hops and hops. We say it like that because you do need three hop additions. First for bitterness use a fairly high alpha pellet hops; using pellets leads to less possible oxidation of the hops. Seven percent alpha acid (AA) or higher should be used and boiled for at least 1 hour — a longer boil will give you a higher bitterness. The second addition of hops is for flavor. This hop can be lower in AA since it is for flavor.
Cascade is a great flavor hop because of its flowery and citrus-like flavor. The flavor hops should be added in the last 15 minutes of the boil. This will give you a flavor of the hop but very little bitterness. The third and final hop addition takes place in either the last five minutes of the boil or during the second fermentation stage. Just add the hop to the secondary and siphon your wort on top of the hops. This will take a little longer to clear, but will give an excellent nose of hops to your pale ale. You may become a “hop head” like some of us, experimenting with hop additions more and more.
– Gary Wilder
Brew Your Own Brew
High Sierra Pale Ale
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.060 FG = 1.014
IBUs = 51 ABV = 5.9%
6 lbs. (2.7 kg) light dry malt extract
1 lb. (0.45 kg) crystal malt (10 ºL) 4 oz. (112 grams) crystal malt (40 ºL)
1 oz. (28 grams) Chinook hops
1 oz. (28 grams) Cascade hops (flavor)
1 oz. (28 grams) Cascade hops
5 oz. (140 grams) priming sugar
1 pkg. brewers yeast
1 grain steeping bag
1 hop bag (for flavor hops)
Step by step
Add 3 gallons (11.4 L) of water to your pot. Empty grains into the steeping bag. Tie bag and place into pot. Bring temperature of water and grains to 155 ºF (68 ºC) and steep for 30 minutes. Remove the grain bag from the steeping water and squeeze excess water and discard bag and grains. Bring this to a boil. Remove from heat and add all malt extract. Bring this mixture to a boil and add bittering hops directly into the pot. Allow the wort to boil for 45 minutes. Add the flavoring hops. Boil for an additional 15 minutes. Put 2.5 gallons (9.5 L) of cold water in a 6.5-gallon (24.7-L) primary fermenter and add the hot wort. Put on the lid and airlock. Fill airlock half way with water. Allow the wort to cool to 75 ºF (24 ºC) or below. When the temperature reaches 75 ºF (24 ºC) it is time to pitch your yeast. Before the yeast is pitched take your original gravity reading.
Never drop the hydrometer directly into the wort, but pull some wort out and test in a tube or large glass. Follow the directions on the package of yeast before pitching. Put the lid and airlock back on fermenter. Keep the fermenter in an area, which will maintain a constant temperature of below 75 ºF (24 ºC), but no lower than 60 ºF (16 ºC). Fermentation should start in 8 to 48 hours. Between 3 and 5 days the fermentation will slow or appear to stop. This is a good time to use your hydrometer to test your specific gravity. After 5 days transfer to your secondary if you are using one. Add the aroma hops now. This is called dry hopping. Condition your beer for 7 to 10 days or until it clears. It is now time to bottle your beer. Wash all bottles in hot soapy water and rinse. Use the sanitizer of your choice to sanitize your bottles. Dissolve 5 oz. (140 grams) of priming sugar in 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Allow to cool to room temperature.
Place this in your sanitized bottling bucket. Using the siphon equipment transfer your beer to the bottling bucket. Attach your tubing to the spigot on your bottling bucket and fill your sanitized bottles. Leave at least 1” of air space in each bottle. Cap all bottles immediately. Store your beer at 70–75 ºF (23 ºF) to carbonate and age in the bottle for at least 10 days. Aging time varies from type and style of beer. Chill and enjoy!
Hey that Gary Wilder recipe from Tucson is my local home brewing store as well. I just signed up for one of his all grain brewing classes. Since his is the only brew store in town I have no reference... do most/all homebrew stores offer classes or am I just lucky to have someone who owns a shop also be someone who has worked in the beer industry and offers classes? I was tentative but decided to ask them about re-using yeast cake and he was cool about talking it. Kind of expected the "don't do that because..." statement.
Excellant D, thanks alot
You can make good extract beer. Not as good as all-grain, but good for sure.
I think you're on the right track trying something like a SNPA. After all, that's probably the kind of thing you like to drink. A lot of new brewers try strange styles like Alt first (myself included). It seems more fun for some reason. But in reality, you'll be totally stoked if you can make a nice clean, hoppy pale ale that you really like to drink.
Cheers! Good luck! :D
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