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Old 08-24-2011, 11:54 PM   #1
TripHops
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Default Oxygen in bottle neck after bottling beer

Hi,

I have never noticed a problem with my beer oxidizing after aging in a bottle for a while but I am curious if eventually the O2 in the bottle neck will change the beer profile.

I always knew there would be a little oxygen in the bottle neck just before capping but as the CO2 pressure builds in the bottle, and since CO2 is heavier than O2, my thought is that it would always stay on the surface of the beer and keep the beer from oxidizing.

Is my assumption correct? Should I sprites my bottles with a little CO2 prior to bottling or will that even matter?

Just curious...

Thanks,
Trip

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Old 08-25-2011, 12:01 AM   #2
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Does the fermentation in the bottles use up some of the oxygen?

Guess we might find out in a year or two when we try some properly aged bottles

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Old 08-25-2011, 12:05 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TripHops View Post

Is my assumption correct?
No!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TripHops View Post
Should I sprites my bottles with a little CO2 prior to bottling or will that even matter?
You should try to clear the O2 from the head-space before capping. Cap on foam or clear it some other way.
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:07 AM   #4
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The yeast need a little oxygen to carb the bottle. You cant get CO2 without O2. The little amount of oxygen should be gone after 2 weeks... That is why it takes 2 weeks to carb a bottle with yeast. I think this is right... It sounds good to me!!

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Old 08-25-2011, 12:18 AM   #5
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The yeast need a little oxygen to carb the bottle. You cant get CO2 without O2. The little amount of oxygen should be gone after 2 weeks... That is why it takes 2 weeks to carb a bottle with yeast. I think this is right... It sounds good to me!!
If this is true, then how do you explain bottle bombs?
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:25 AM   #6
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You cant get CO2 without O2.
You can't get carbon dioxide without oxygen but it doesn't have to be (and is not in fermentation) molecular oxygen. The oxygen comes from carbohydrate. In the case of fermenting wort where most of the carbohydrate is glucose or glucose polymers the reaction is:

C6H12O6 → 2C2H5OH + 2CO2

As for the OP. Oxidation is a complex and poorly understood subject. For example, the most insidious oxidized compound involved in beer staling, trans-2-nonenal, seems to be produced with strikingly low sensitivity to dissolved oxygen levels in the package.

Studies in the early 90s showed that during bottle condition yeast only reduce a portion of the oxygen in the headspace. As such I would consider pre-evacuating the bottle (it is hard to cap uncarbonated beer on foam but if you can, that works too) to be a best practice. Pratically speaking, it isn't necessary unless you really want to maximize shelf life. I would do it if I were bottle conditioning hoppy ales, but then I don't bottle condition hoppy ales.
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:39 AM   #7
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If you just so slightly overfill your bottles with the wand, not only will they be uniformly filled, you will have only a little bit of air in the top when you remove the wand. Plus, after you fill the bottle, you should rest the bottle cap on top for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the yeast to start creating a little CO2 and push the air out. This way they create their own little blanket of CO2 first, then you crimp.

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Old 08-25-2011, 10:23 AM   #8
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The yeast need a little oxygen to carb the bottle. You cant get CO2 without O2. The little amount of oxygen should be gone after 2 weeks... That is why it takes 2 weeks to carb a bottle with yeast. I think this is right... It sounds good to me!!
Yes, you can. For instance, you can get it from C6H12O6. Do you realize what forum you are posting on?

That little bit of oxygen might very well be gone, in the sense that it became involved in staling mechanisms.
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:49 PM   #9
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The O2 in the headspace is not generally a problem. If you were very anal, you might purge the O2 out with a shot from your CO2 bottle. Most people who bottle don't have this. Then the best thing is to fill to the top and then pull the bottling wand out, leaving the proper headspace. Hopefully your beer has some residual Co2 in it from the ferment. If so, it will foam up a bit. Put the cap on the foam and crimp it on.

And I have been recommending O2 barrier caps since I started using them. They supposedly absorb O2 over time.

It takes a while for oxidation to become a problem in a bottle. Unless your transfer method introduced a bunch into the beer, or you stirred vigorously in the bottling bucket, you should be ok.

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Old 08-25-2011, 04:10 PM   #10
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The best way to prevent any oxidation is simple. After you let the beer age a few weeks, cool it down slowly and let it chill for a few days. Then drink it, and enjoy it with friends. You will never have any oxidation problem and you will always have friends. But if for some reason you would like to save it for a year or so I would have to say the the little O2 left in the neck would be displaced or used and should not give any problems. But I would not risk it and revert to the my first method.

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