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**Jakeintoledo** · 08-27-2012, 05:12 PM

Let me preface this by saying I've attempted to garner an answer to my question both by searching this site and by reading what John Palmer has to say on the topic, and haven't answered my question satisfactorily.

I brewed up an Oktoberfest about a week and change ago. Fermented it for better part of 5-7 days, did a two day diacetyl rest, and now brought it down to about 35-40 degrees (accounting for hysteresis in my fridge).

My question is....I'll be lagering away for about another six weeks or thereabouts. Once I bottle, I understand that I'll want to add yeast to suspension. a couple questions arise:

1) I used Wyeast Oktoberfest Blend smack pack. I plan on using it again, but how much?

2) should I bring the beer up to room temp before re-pitching and adding sugar?

3) should I use the same amount of sugar I'd use when priming an Ale? I tend to like my beer less fizzy and foamy, and generally err on the side of undercarbed versus overcarbed, so I usually add 0.8oz of sugar for every gallon of ale. is this also reasonable to do with the lager?

Thanks in advance.

Robusto · 08-27-2012, 05:17 PM

I have the same questions... tagged for later!

MZRIS · 08-27-2012, 05:21 PM

1) I used Wyeast Oktoberfest Blend smack pack. I plan on using it again, but how much?

pitch whole pack

2) should I bring the beer up to room temp before re-pitching and adding sugar?

no - lager yeast function as they should in cold temps.

3) should I use the same amount of sugar I'd use when priming an Ale? I tend to like my beer less fizzy and foamy, and generally err on the side of undercarbed versus overcarbed, so I usually add 0.8oz of sugar for every gallon of ale. is this also reasonable to do with the lager?

Use a carb calculator for best results. Here is a simple one I just googled.

Denny · 08-27-2012, 05:23 PM

I have never needed to add bottling yeast for a lager, and that includes higher gravity ones that were lagered for several months. I'm amazed that you fermented it out in 5-7 days! If you don't warm it up, you'll need to account for dissolved CO2 when you bottle it. For that reason, I find it easier to bring it up to room temp before bottling.

**Jakeintoledo** · 08-28-2012, 12:34 AM

Denny, Honestly, I don't know that i did. I took a grav reading and it came in at 1.015-1.017. This is my first rodeo with lagering.

jigidyjim · 08-28-2012, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Denny

I have never needed to add bottling yeast for a lager, and that includes higher gravity ones that were lagered for several months. I'm amazed that you fermented it out in 5-7 days! If you don't warm it up, you'll need to account for dissolved CO2 when you bottle it. For that reason, I find it easier to bring it up to room temp before bottling.

+1, never pitched additional yeast at bottling time for a lager. I'm not claiming that you shouldn't but I haven't read anywhere of people needing to do this.

***Yooper*** · 08-28-2012, 01:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jigidyjim

+1, never pitched additional yeast at bottling time for a lager. I'm not claiming that you shouldn't but I haven't read anywhere of people needing to do this.

I have done it both ways- not added fresh yeast, and then also added fresh yeast. Aside from quicker carbing with reyeasting, I didn't have any differences in the end product.

One point, though- I did NOT pitch lager yeast at bottling. I used 1/3 package (about 3 grams) of dry nottingham yeast. I boiled up the priming solution, cooled it and poured it into the bottling bucket. I then stirred in the dry yeast, and let it sit for a minute and then racked the beer into that to mix well. It worked perfectly, and I let the beer carb up at room temperature.

I use .8 ounce per gallon of priming sugar for most of my ales, but I like my light lagers a little higher carbed and use closer to 1 ounce per gallon. For dark lagers like dopplebock, I use .75 ounce per gallon.