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Old 06-15-2011, 07:40 PM   #1
twanger1994
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Default Kab4 stand Modificaation

Hello,

I finally decided to use the KAB4 burners. They will save me money in the building of my rig. I like the height and also I have a modification in mind that will allow a frame of angle to be weld onto the tops of each leg.

Can anyone tell me some more measurements for it?

I know that the cooking surface 16" from leg to leg diagonally, and it is 12" tall.

I would like to know what is the distance of the legs left to right or front to back?
Also what is the height from the burner top to the cooking surface?


Thanks for all the help

The rig is well on its way. just need to but all the pieces together now

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Old 06-16-2011, 07:15 PM   #2
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Twanger -

I am in a similar boat. I am using the KAB6 burners on my rig and like you, I would like to mod them slightly to hold my keggles a little more securely. I will be interested to see what you come up with. =)

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Old 06-17-2011, 01:52 AM   #3
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Default Banjo Burner Kab4 kab6 modifications

Hello,
Seems like everyone is going to have to make some type of modification to the KAB 4 or 6. Some it will be the height of the burner (4.25"). Some it will be the size of the cooking surface. Yet others will have both problems. So im going to try and fix what I can and shed some light for anyone who wants it

I have a banjo burner from NB that is being used in another system



This burner worked great at 4" from the burner with a flat bottom pot. The brackets are to make the cook surface bigger. Once we switched over to the keggle the flame was not as effective. Since the keggle has a domed bottom there was too much heat loss. (I hear others have a height problem too!) Our solution was to turn one of the brackets around to allow the lip of the keggle to sit into the void. Now the bottom the the keggle is about 2" from the burner. Heat then runs up the rounded bottom and raises temp. much faster. Ive never timed it but we have never had to wait on boiling water.

Today I received my KAB4. (Amazon 80.00 free shipping) In my case, the cost of buying the burners, regulators and hose plus building material for the stand, and time to build it, Just makes sense to modify these.

First Mod: Raise the burner. The Four legs are 1/2" round stock bent in a rectangle, welded to the thick wind screen in three places, The top and bottom are on one side, the middle is on the other. I used a dremel with a flexible handle attachment. (used two big metal cutting blades to cut four legs) An angle grinder (small as possible) may work but it will be tough to control.

Watch: One of the legs was welded at the seam of the wind shield. Be careful not to cut that seam or you will have to re-weld it to hold the burner.

Next is to set the legs to the desired height and weld them back to the wind shield. Depending on what you are trying to get out of your cooker that may work fine.

My next mod will turn the legs we just cut off into just a connector between the larger cooking surface and the new frame. It will be a very simple square metal frame made from angle steel with 4- 1 1/2" square tube legs. The legs on the wind shield will allow me to weld it onto the stand I build.

To attach my legs I will use Steel cable clamps The bottom piece can be flipped and with the proper series of drilling holes the burner height will be adjustable.

Ill work that up tonight and hopefully have it done tomorrow afternoon... check back soon

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Old 06-20-2011, 01:11 AM   #4
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Thanks to the big box home improvement stores, I had to order the clamps online. TBC..

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Old 07-09-2011, 10:31 PM   #5
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twanger - can you repost or update your photos?

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Old 07-11-2011, 03:24 AM   #6
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Few things I noticed: There are nubs on the burner that could get in the way of the u bolt. I got lucky and was able to squeeze mine in.
Also remember the bottom of the keg is not always going to be level, or your base, so you may have to play with your leg heights if ya got a wobble.

According to bayou classic: The re-engineering of this burner was to optimize the burner with a flat bottom pot. The rounded bottom of a keg is not optimal
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:44 PM   #7
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Thanks Twanger. so it looks like you've broken the welds on the one burner and used the ubolts to adjust height. Very nice.

Regarding your boil times, what were they before and after your adjustments? What about estimated LP savings?

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Old 07-11-2011, 03:38 PM   #8
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I have two of these burners. One is modified and the other is original. So I will be doing a side by side comparison, and posting a video soon.
I've been waiting on a neighbor to cut open the two kegs I have. I haven't rushed the guy yet since I was still acquiring parts to build the kettles. If I cant get it done soon, ill go rent the plasma cutter and do it myself... Please check back soon

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Old 07-27-2011, 10:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repomanz View Post
Thanks Twanger. so it looks like you've broken the welds on the one burner and used the ubolts to adjust height. Very nice.

Regarding your boil times, what were they before and after your adjustments? What about estimated LP savings?
Ok so now that my kegs are cut open I did a quick comparison. Filled each keg with 9 gallons of 87 degree water.

First up the KAB4 with no modification:
104degrees@9mins

117@15mins

141@26mins

160@33mins
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:38 PM   #10
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Now for the modified KAB4:
117@18mins

142@13mins

160@16mins


About half the time and half the fuel!!!

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