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Old 07-14-2012, 05:43 PM   #11
malt20
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I drink all different types of beer from dogfish head 60 or 90 to anderson valley, russian river pliney. rougue, greenflash, firestone, sierra, palma louca, stella, all types of belgian beer and on and on. As a bar manager i get to order and try pretty much every type of beer. Plus the local pubs and local breweries.
I take everything as it comes when i brew, never rushing. Usually take 6 hours give or take from start to finish (cleaning included) for my all grain setup. I use a 10 gallon (cylinder cooler) igloo cooler system for mashing and usually do 6 gallon batches so i get 5g by the end of it all. I use an imersion chiller but i feel it takes longer then it should to cool. Like 45 minutes usually. I ferment in buckets, secondary in carboys and use a chest freezer with a johnson thermostat to control the temp. I do 2000 ml starters and oxygenate by high pooring into fermentation bucket. p.s. my fermentations take off like crazy now with the starter so i know its not a lack of yeast or oxygen. (i think.....)
How do you filter the beer? I use whirlfloc tabs to clear it up btw. Cold crash to filter or filter with something else after the wort is cool. Will this really change the taste for the better???

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Old 07-14-2012, 05:54 PM   #12
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I drink all different types of beer from dogfish head 60 or 90 to anderson valley, russian river pliney. rougue, greenflash, firestone, sierra, palma louca, stella, all types of belgian beer and on and on. As a bar manager i get to order and try pretty much every type of beer. Plus the local pubs and local breweries.
I take everything as it comes when i brew, never rushing. Usually take 6 hours give or take from start to finish (cleaning included) for my all grain setup. I use a 10 gallon (cylinder cooler) igloo cooler system for mashing and usually do 6 gallon batches so i get 5g by the end of it all. I use an imersion chiller but i feel it takes longer then it should to cool. Like 45 minutes usually. I ferment in buckets, secondary in carboys and use a chest freezer with a johnson thermostat to control the temp. I do 2000 ml starters and oxygenate by high pooring into fermentation bucket. p.s. my fermentations take off like crazy now with the starter so i know its not a lack of yeast or oxygen. (i think.....)
How do you filter the beer? I use whirlfloc tabs to clear it up btw. Cold crash to filter or filter with something else after the wort is cool. Will this really change the taste for the better???
You can filter using two kegs and a inline filter using CO2 so you don't oxidize if you want the "cleanest" beer possible at a home brew level. The big boys use a centrifuge to get any lingering yeast out. I have done it a few times but dont find it worth it anymore. I wouldn't mess with a filter if you cold crash, kind of a PITA and can intro an infection.
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:55 PM   #13
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I drink all different types of beer from dogfish head 60 or 90 to anderson valley, russian river pliney. rougue, greenflash, firestone, sierra, palma louca, stella, all types of belgian beer and on and on. As a bar manager i get to order and try pretty much every type of beer. Plus the local pubs and local breweries.
I take everything as it comes when i brew, never rushing. Usually take 6 hours give or take from start to finish (cleaning included) for my all grain setup. I use a 10 gallon (cylinder cooler) igloo cooler system for mashing and usually do 6 gallon batches so i get 5g by the end of it all. I use an imersion chiller but i feel it takes longer then it should to cool. Like 45 minutes usually. I ferment in buckets, secondary in carboys and use a chest freezer with a johnson thermostat to control the temp. I do 2000 ml starters and oxygenate by high pooring into fermentation bucket. p.s. my fermentations take off like crazy now with the starter so i know its not a lack of yeast or oxygen. (i think.....)
How do you filter the beer? I use whirlfloc tabs to clear it up btw. Cold crash to filter or filter with something else after the wort is cool. Will this really change the taste for the better???
Homebrew really clears itself, but it can take a long time and low temps to get it very clear.

Filtering (search plate filter) does this very quickly. Most brewers use kegs and CO2 to push the beer through the filter. It can also be done with a pump sprayer, but I wouldn't recommend that (probably a good way to oxidize the crap out of your beer).

Try taking a homebrew and put it in the fridge for a month, undisturbed. Then pour carefully. If you still get the taste, it's probably not yeast.

Maybe you should also rule out something in the water. Try brewing with filtered water from the store.

Maybe you can get another opinion on your beer at your local LHBS or club.
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:03 PM   #14
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Maybe you can get another opinion on your beer at your local LHBS or club.
I second that. Getting input from other brewers who brew great beer is the best way to track down flaws in your brew.
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:16 PM   #15
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I know somebody has to know what im talking about. what is the homebrew taste. It's not any type of infection. Ive tasted other old homebrewers beer that doesnt seem to have it and they wont really let their secret out. Kegging seems to have a little less of the homebrew taste. water is fine. I do all grain sparge batching (no extract) and have a freezer i ferment in so the temp isnt all over the place. I am extremely clean and sanitary. Can anybody explain or expand on the subject..........
all of my past beers have been extract base and have always had an off taste best way to describe it is cidery. i have always practiced good sanitation but never did any temperature controlled fermenting. what ever the room temp was at. i generally fermented at low to mid 70. i always blamed it on canned malt extract. my first ag with controlled fermentation is in the secondary now. hopefully it make an improvement
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:39 PM   #16
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all of my past beers have been extract base and have always had an off taste best way to describe it is cidery. i have always practiced good sanitation but never did any temperature controlled fermenting. what ever the room temp was at. i generally fermented at low to mid 70. i always blamed it on canned malt extract. my first ag with controlled fermentation is in the secondary now. hopefully it make an improvement
That may be and is most likely your cidery problem. Those temps will make it more estery. Troubleshooting is tougher at first but its a learning process.

O.P---Cold conditioning can round out those harsh flavors,could be the water which i seem to think can really make a difference,but generally checking my mash ph assures likely a good beer at least with my process. Maybe more filtering is what your looking for though.

Keeping the yeast out is a thing.Pouring the last 1/2 inch into the glass can really change the taste of it , often not for the better. Letting them sit longer really clears them up and can clean up(conditioning)and refine flavors. Thats why some people primary longer because by the time they are carbed they are generally good to go with less extensive bottle conditioning. Either way 8 weeks start to finish seems like my average good time to drink them. But sticking them in the fridge for even longer probably would be even better.
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:48 PM   #17
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I'm gonna need a better description of the flavor to even be able to guess.

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Old 07-14-2012, 06:54 PM   #18
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I agree the "homebrew taste" descrption is kinda hard to pinpoint. I think some of mine had a "taste" to them for a while i think it was oxidation but its not sherry or cardboard, its more like a citric carbonic bite maybe from overcarbonation or something.It wasnt bad just noticable.Probably something to do with the water though really maybe too hard or soft? Too much of a certain mineral proabably can just do that.

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Old 07-14-2012, 06:57 PM   #19
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It sounds like the OP isn't using fancy bottles with cool artwork.

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Old 07-14-2012, 07:02 PM   #20
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Time for a blind taste test Homebrew vs. Commercial. Which has the homebrew taste?

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