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-   -   Help with flavor hops. (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/help-flavor-hops-129522/)

thantos 07-25-2009 11:16 PM

Help with flavor hops.
 
Hey all,
I know everyone tastes and smells things different. So I would like your opinions on what you consider to be a flavor hop. I am looking for a way to impart more of a floral flavor into my beer with out increasing the bitterness. So with that said;

1). Which hop do you think would impart more of a floral flavor in the beer, without necessarily increasing the IBU's?

2). Which method to use to achieve it? (Last 5 min. or last 1 min. of the boil to dry hopping 1/2 oz Primary, 1/2 oz secondary or both)

Ok Discuss ;)

KayaBrew 07-25-2009 11:43 PM

You're going to get a flood of opinions here. What style of beer are you brewing? Willamette hops are great for flavor and aroma in APAs, IPAs, Porters and Stouts. I really like to dry-hop APAs with Willamette.

enderwig 07-25-2009 11:52 PM

I'd go with Willamette or EKG, (or both) at 10-15 minutes

Yooper 07-26-2009 12:05 AM

Well, just about any hop variety will give flavor, not bitterness after about 40 minutes into the boil (20 minutes left). So, any additions from 15 minutes left in the boil on will be for flavor and aroma.

I think that centennials can be floral- in fact I know that I posted that I tasted ****ing flowers for about a month in my Lil Bastard. But they also have a citrusy flavor, too.

I think simcoe is piney; amarillo is grapefruity; cascade is citrusy; Mt. Hood, liberty, crystal, hallertauer are "clean"; Saaz is slightly flowery, but "clean" as well, and delicate; fuggles are a bit flowery but a bit grassy; EKG taste like dirt to me; northern brewer tastes a little minty; Spalt are a little spicy but very nice; sterling (I've used sterling when I can't get saaz) is a wee bit spicy, but also a little floral with a hint of citrus; Tettnanger (a noble hop) is very much like Saaz. I don't get a ton of floral aroma with many of these, but I use all of them in different beers.

Aubie Stout 07-26-2009 12:10 AM

If you want floral, it takes a ton of Centennial to get flowers. Crystal is floral. Athanum is floral.

Personally, if you are making an APA or IPA, I'd FWH an ounce or two of Crystal and an ounce of two of Crystal or Athanum at flame out. That should get you what you want.

thantos 07-26-2009 02:17 AM

Thanks for the great responses! I am wanting to use this in two of my beers a APA, and a American Amber Ale. I have decided to try dry hoping in the primary and secondary each with a 1/2 oz. of Willamette hops. Here is my modified recipe for the AAA I am brewing tomorrow.

8 lbs. Ultralight
1 lbs. Crystal 60L
1.5 oz. Cascade - Bittering 60 mins.
1 oz. Willamette - Flavoring last 5 mins.
1 oz. Willamette - Aroma last 1 min.
1/2 Tab Whirlfloc last 5 mins.
1 Tspn Irish Moss last 5 mins.
1/2 oz. Willamette Dry hop in primary 7 days
1/2 oz. Willamette Dry hop in Secondary 7 days

White lab - California Ale Yeast - 001

Est. OG. 1.051-54
Est. IBU 39-41 This is the original before dry hopping.
Est ABV 5%
Ferm temp 68 deg.

I am thinking of adding another 1 lbs. of the Ultralight to help round out any added bittering from the dry hoping. As I imagine there will be a little?

Please let me know what you all think.
Thanks Gene

jagg 07-26-2009 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thantos (Post 1452521)
Thanks for the great responses! I am wanting to use this in two of my beers a APA, and a American Amber Ale. I have decided to try dry hoping in the primary and secondary each with a 1/2 oz. of Willamette hops. Here is my modified recipe for the AAA I am brewing tomorrow.

8 lbs. Ultralight
1 lbs. Crystal 60L
1.5 oz. Cascade - Bittering 60 mins.
1 oz. Willamette - Flavoring last 5 mins.
1 oz. Willamette - Aroma last 1 min.
1/2 Tab Whirlfloc last 5 mins.
1 Tspn Irish Moss last 5 mins.
1/2 oz. Willamette Dry hop in primary 7 days
1/2 oz. Willamette Dry hop in Secondary 7 days

White lab - California Ale Yeast - 001

Est. OG. 1.051-54
Est. IBU 39-41 This is the original before dry hopping.
Est ABV 5%
Ferm temp 68 deg.

I am thinking of adding another 1 lbs. of the Ultralight to help round out any added bittering from the dry hoping. As I imagine there will be a little?

Please let me know what you all think.
Thanks Gene

Dont put dry hops in the primary, the yeast will evaporate them away, instead use the 1 oz. in the secondary, you will get zero bittering from the dry hops, they must be boiled to get the bittering, good luck with your brew.

chefchris 07-26-2009 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagg (Post 1452725)
Dont put dry hops in the primary, the yeast will evaporate them away, instead use the 1 oz. in the secondary, you will get zero bittering from the dry hops, they must be boiled to get the bittering, good luck with your brew.

I dry hop in the primary all the time. A lot of commercial brewers add their dry hops after the peak of fermentation. Now if you were going to add them at high krausen, then I could see a problem with that process.

thantos 07-27-2009 12:09 AM

Just read these posts, of course right after pitching and putting the hops in the primary! Oh well we will see how it comes out!

chefchris 07-27-2009 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thantos (Post 1453498)
Just read these posts, of course right after pitching and putting the hops in the primary! Oh well we will see how it comes out!

So you pitched your yeast and dry hops at the same time?


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