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Old 12-08-2013, 01:26 AM   #11
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Cascade,,, definitely Cascade.

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Old 12-08-2013, 01:38 AM   #12
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One of my last brews was a chinook/cascade pale ale (borderline IPA territory). Hop stand and dry hopped with both. Great combo.

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Old 12-08-2013, 01:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ_IPA View Post
Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo all go well with Chinook.
Yes.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:52 PM   #14
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Haha, well looks like I made a good choice. After the link to the hops pairings page, I went out and bought 3oz of Cascade. Can anyone recommend how I might add this to the boil? I was thinking...

1oz @ 20min
1oz @ 10min
1oz @ 0min

Or something like that? Should I use like 0.5oz as a bittering addition? Should I rearrange the Chinook boil schedule? I suppose I could just match the Chinook boil schedule with equal parts Cascade.

Planning on brewing this tonight, so any expedient input would be much appreciated!

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Old 12-09-2013, 04:45 PM   #15
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My last batch (with a somewhat similar grainbill) with cascade (7.3% AA) /chinook (11%) was:

1 oz Cascade @ 60
.5 oz Cascade @ 30
.5 oz Cascade @ 10
1 oz Cascade + .5 oz Chinook @ flameout
1.5 oz Chinook + 1 oz Cascade for a hop stand (I cooled as quickly as I can down to ~ 170 deg, then steeped these for about 45 mins before cooling to pitching temps.)
1 oz Cascade + 1 oz Chinook for 7 day dry hop before bottling.

Notes: First, loved the combo. 2nd - I've had a lot of experience with cascade, and this was a first for me with Chinook, and really wanted to see what Chinook added in the aroma/flavor realm). I had plenty of extra Cascade on hand, so I used these up for my bittering to hit my goal of 46 IBU's (although a higher AA would've allowed me to use less in the boil.)

While Chinook would've got me higher bittering with less hops, (a) I've read Chinook can lead to a "harsher" bittering - whether that's true or not (I still wouldn't shy from using them as bittering), and (b) I wanted to save all my Chinook for flavor and huge aroma, with Cascade mixed into the late additions hoping to complement one another. It worked! They are very nice together.

If it was me, I'd move your late Chinook additions all to flameout (and/or hop stand if you haven't tried it), and at least 1.5 - 2 oz reserved for dry hopping. That would really give you the aroma punch, if your going for that. At 20 mins, you'll get more bittering and minimal flavor/aroma, from my experiences. (I still occasionally layer in hops between 30 mins and flameout, but if I really want a big hop aroma punch - I load up heavy late additions as mentioned above.)

Let us know how yours comes out. Cheers!

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Old 12-09-2013, 06:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewinBromanite View Post
My last batch (with a somewhat similar grainbill) with cascade (7.3% AA) /chinook (11%) was:

1 oz Cascade @ 60
.5 oz Cascade @ 30
.5 oz Cascade @ 10
1 oz Cascade + .5 oz Chinook @ flameout
1.5 oz Chinook + 1 oz Cascade for a hop stand (I cooled as quickly as I can down to ~ 170 deg, then steeped these for about 45 mins before cooling to pitching temps.)
1 oz Cascade + 1 oz Chinook for 7 day dry hop before bottling.

Notes: First, loved the combo. 2nd - I've had a lot of experience with cascade, and this was a first for me with Chinook, and really wanted to see what Chinook added in the aroma/flavor realm). I had plenty of extra Cascade on hand, so I used these up for my bittering to hit my goal of 46 IBU's (although a higher AA would've allowed me to use less in the boil.)

While Chinook would've got me higher bittering with less hops, (a) I've read Chinook can lead to a "harsher" bittering - whether that's true or not (I still wouldn't shy from using them as bittering), and (b) I wanted to save all my Chinook for flavor and huge aroma, with Cascade mixed into the late additions hoping to complement one another. It worked! They are very nice together.

If it was me, I'd move your late Chinook additions all to flameout (and/or hop stand if you haven't tried it), and at least 1.5 - 2 oz reserved for dry hopping. That would really give you the aroma punch, if your going for that. At 20 mins, you'll get more bittering and minimal flavor/aroma, from my experiences. (I still occasionally layer in hops between 30 mins and flameout, but if I really want a big hop aroma punch - I load up heavy late additions as mentioned above.)

Let us know how yours comes out. Cheers!
Wow you really know your stuff! I will definitely take those notes into consideration when reviewing my brew, lol.

As a background FYI, I have done 6 "kits" in my brewing experience. I have none experience with making my own boil plans, so now I'm a bit nervous about what I did in this batch. I did brew it last night. My boil ended up being as follows (IIRC, but if not, it was close. I wrote it down, but its at home). The LHBS wrote "4%" on my Cascade bag, so I assume that's AA?:

1.0 oz Chinook @ 60min
1.0 oz Chinook @ 40min
0.5 oz Cascade @ 40min
1.0 oz Cascade @ 10min
1.0 oz Chinook @ 5min
1.0 oz Cascade @ 5min
0.5 oz Cascade @ 0min

Why did I do that? I have no idea... lol. My thought was I have drank the Chinook IPA and like the bitters, but wanted more aroma. I have liked late Cascade in the past (I think) so viola, I did that... Probably a bad reason, but I have an empty keg and I was in a hurry to get it going to fill it and this weekend was it.

Originally (last night when scribbling up the boil additions) I said screw it with the dry hopping and forewent that for more boiled hops. I'm beginning to second guess that thought.

Should I go back and buy some Cascade for dry hopping? Any clue on what to expect from this beer? Does the boil schedule above sound like something disgusting? lol. I know you can't know, but just some thoughts would be appreciated. Beginning to think I just threw away my (admittedly small) investment on this brew.
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:44 PM   #17
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Chinook and chinook. Or any of the American varieties go great too.

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Old 12-09-2013, 06:52 PM   #18
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Chinook is the hop for Arrogant Bastard! I just opened my firs bottle and did a side by side and my wife thought that my brew was the original!
Super easy and simple!

90%2 row 10% special b
1.0 oz Chinook intervals

90 min
45 min
15 min
0 min

Dry hop 1.0 oz

Mine is on the right

image-2719367139.jpg  
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:41 PM   #19
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Skep18 - that sounds like a great hop schedule. Should turn out great. A few things I've learned since I started brewing: Depending on how quickly you chill the wort after flameout, a lot of the "late" additions (ie...anywhere from 5-30 mins) may end up contributing more bitterness and lose the flavor/aroma you had hoped for. That's exactly why I've started trying the hop-stand/hop-bursting/whirlpool additions. You'll read a lot of different terminology for the same concept, and a lot of different methods (especially the temps, times, etc). Just keep in mind that the longer get the wort is over 170-180 deg, it will still impart "some" bitterness, and the aroma will tend to fade.

My hop-stand technique, again, is to chill as rapidly as your system allows (mine is rudimentary - a bathtub full of ice and frequent gentle stirring) - down to about 170, then steep hops for 45 mins to an hr, then finish chilling down to pitching temps. A lot of brewers will attest that this or similar method will give a great hop aroma, even without dry hopping. You could see how it comes out as is, or dry hop later for even more aroma. I didn't do a hop stand or dry hopping for a long while, and had great results without, but that hop aroma sure fades quickly the longer it sits in bottles or keg. An oz or 2 of either cascade or chinook for dry hop would be great, or 1 of each perhaps. Lately, I've been craving intense hop aroma, so I've done heavy additions around 5 mins to flameout, as well as both hop-stand and dry hop.

Let us know if you end up leaving as is, or decide to dry hop, and how it turns out!

(Also - if you do dry hop, wait at least until active fermentation is completed, then dry hop for 5-7 days before bottling/kegging. Otherwise, a lot of the hop oils will stick to the yeast and over particles during the active part of fermentation, and fall out with the trub, and won't have near as much benefit.)

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Old 12-09-2013, 08:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno81 View Post
Chinook is the hop for Arrogant Bastard! I just opened my firs bottle and did a side by side and my wife thought that my brew was the original!
Super easy and simple!

90%2 row 10% special b
1.0 oz Chinook intervals

90 min
45 min
15 min
0 min

Dry hop 1.0 oz

Mine is on the right
Wow, didn't know that. I have 2 kegs of the Chinook IPA, well, one i kegged, another is about to be kegged. One was dry hopped, the other wasn't. I am currently drinking the non-dry hopped one and its really is a good beer. ~5.5% ABV, it's very drinkable and enjoyable. As mentioned, its a bit quiet on the hops, sort of, more like Sierra Nevada IMO. I've yet to try the dry hopped beer, so we'll see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewinBromanite View Post
Skep18 - that sounds like a great hop schedule. Should turn out great. A few things I've learned since I started brewing: Depending on how quickly you chill the wort after flameout, a lot of the "late" additions (ie...anywhere from 5-30 mins) may end up contributing more bitterness and lose the flavor/aroma you had hoped for. That's exactly why I've started trying the hop-stand/hop-bursting/whirlpool additions. You'll read a lot of different terminology for the same concept, and a lot of different methods (especially the temps, times, etc). Just keep in mind that the longer get the wort is over 170-180 deg, it will still impart "some" bitterness, and the aroma will tend to fade.

My hop-stand technique, again, is to chill as rapidly as your system allows (mine is rudimentary - a bathtub full of ice and frequent gentle stirring) - down to about 170, then steep hops for 45 mins to an hr, then finish chilling down to pitching temps. A lot of brewers will attest that this or similar method will give a great hop aroma, even without dry hopping. You could see how it comes out as is, or dry hop later for even more aroma. I didn't do a hop stand or dry hopping for a long while, and had great results without, but that hop aroma sure fades quickly the longer it sits in bottles or keg. An oz or 2 of either cascade or chinook for dry hop would be great, or 1 of each perhaps. Lately, I've been craving intense hop aroma, so I've done heavy additions around 5 mins to flameout, as well as both hop-stand and dry hop.

Let us know if you end up leaving as is, or decide to dry hop, and how it turns out!

(Also - if you do dry hop, wait at least until active fermentation is completed, then dry hop for 5-7 days before bottling/kegging. Otherwise, a lot of the hop oils will stick to the yeast and over particles during the active part of fermentation, and fall out with the trub, and won't have near as much benefit.)
I see, I'll have to try the hop-stand trick! Depending on how good/bad this brew turns out, I may go back to kits (which I can't mess up) or not. But I can attest to one thing. Stuff like Stouts and Brown Ales, those seem pretty easy to get right, at least relative to IPA's. Getting that hop aroma just right is proving to be a lot more involved than I thought.

And I have thus far typically been following some of this forum's advice of letting my beers sit in primary for a month. As such, I've been leaving the beer on the yeast cake for a month, dry hopping in a hop bag for ~5 days before kegging. In an effort to try and eliminate variables, I figured this was a proven way on these forums, so I wouldn't try to vary this technique. Though I have been reading IPA's are best fresh, so in the future, I may try and monitor fermentation and get it out sooner? Eitehr way, when I dry hop, the beer has typically been in primary for 3.5 weeks. No worries of yeasties still churning around.
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