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Old 07-25-2012, 11:13 PM   #101
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Just to clarify the conversation - 1 IBU = 1 PPM of Alpha Acid. You're correct - but PPM works in all units. That doesn't mean that Alpha Acid is the only thing that creates the bitterness profile of beers - technically it's the only thing represented in the IBU number.

For chemistry-types, is there anything that happens specifically to the Alpha Acid during a longer, below boiling soak or does it just allow for a more complete AA extraction?

I view home brewing as a chemistry experiment. I'm capable of making some excellent beers - but with the really great selection in local stores I can't claim to make better beer than I can buy. I figure that brewing is a fun activity with tasty results. So, with that in mind, I think I'll plan to do a split batch. I'll brew a basic IPA and split the collected wort to two boils. I'll do a FHW on one and the standard hop schedule on the other. I can then have some bjcp certified friends blind taste them and tell me what they think.

So, for those of you that have done FWH (I haven't yet) - if I were aiming to keep IBU totals similar how should I proceed? Should I simply replace the 60 minute addition?

Obviously I want to make a tasty beer - but with something like this the fewer variables the better. I'll prob stick to a very basic malt profile and maybe just go with multiple additions of a single hop. Any suggestions for very basic but tasty IPA recipes?
I agree with a basic malt profile and pick a hop like Centennial or Simcoe. If you go with a low AA like Cascade, you will need double the first hop addition to get a similar bitterness

10lb 2 row
.75lb crystal 10 through 60, your choice
.25lb carapils

1oz hops at 60 vs FWH to compare
1oz hops at 15
1oz hops at 5
1-2oz dry hop


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Old 07-26-2012, 01:45 AM   #102
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:03 AM   #103
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I agree with a basic malt profile and pick a hop like Centennial or Simcoe. If you go with a low AA like Cascade, you will need double the first hop addition to get a similar bitterness

10lb 2 row
.75lb crystal 10 through 60, your choice
.25lb carapils

1oz hops at 60 vs FWH to compare
1oz hops at 15
1oz hops at 5
1-2oz dry hop
sounds reasonable. I've been moving away from crystal malts recently. I'll try to knock this out and report back.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:52 PM   #104
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I agree with a basic malt profile and pick a hop like Centennial or Simcoe. If you go with a low AA like Cascade, you will need double the first hop addition to get a similar bitterness

10lb 2 row
.75lb crystal 10 through 60, your choice
.25lb carapils

1oz hops at 60 vs FWH to compare
1oz hops at 15
1oz hops at 5
1-2oz dry hop
The experiment I did used only 60 in one batch and only FWH in the other. That's the way I recommend you do it. Other hops could cover up subtleties.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:55 PM   #105
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The experiment I did used only 60 in one batch and only FWH in the other. That's the way I recommend you do it. Other hops could cover up subtleties.
good point. I like that idea. Now I just have to do a recipe that'll be tasty and worth brewing.


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