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Old 08-17-2011, 02:22 PM   #1
diverpat
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Default Brewing a big beer (1.150) would like some input

I'm going to attempt to brew a beer with an OG of around 1.150. I have come up with a game plan for brewing/fermentation and would like some input from those with experience. A lot of this is thinking out loud so the protocol is not set in stone.

The recipe is a Barleywine but big, I'll post the recipe below. I'm planning on using WLP007 which will hopefully, under optimal conditions, be able to take this to around 15%. Beersmith says 18% but I don't think it will hit the estimated FG (1.017). I'm only doing a 3 gallon batch. Here are the steps I'm planning.

-Making a starter/sacrificial brew of 3 gallons out of some old LME. Stopping the growth at 3 days. I'll pitch my high gravity wort on this.

-Mashing long and low, 148 for 2 hours.

-Brew the planned wort and split it into (3) 1 gallon batches, oxygenating 1 gallon for around 5 minutes and pitching onto yeast cake.

-After 24 hours, oxygenate another gallon of wort and pitch, wait another 24 hours oxygenate the last gallon and pitch to get to the final volume. I'll add servomyces at each wort addition. I'm leery of oxygenating fermenting wort but there will still be some cell growth so I think it is right ?

-Keep in primary for 2 months, rack to secondary to get off of exhausted yeast and age for another 2-3 months then add yeast bottle and wait another 6-8 months before enjoying/choking down/dumping.

What do you think? What can I modify to get the best results?

Here is the recipe:
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size (fermenter): 3.00 gal
Boil Size: 6.00 gal
Bottling Volume: 3.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.152 SG
Estimated Color: 25.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 86.5 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Boil Time: 120 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name
13 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
2 lbs Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
1 lbs Aromatic Malt (26.0 SRM)
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM)
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min
1.00 oz Northern Brewer [8.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min
1.00 oz Northern Brewer [8.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min
1 lbs Caramel, Sugar, Table (Sucrose)
1.0 pkg Dry English Ale (White Labs #WLP007)


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 18 lbs 8.0 oz
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 21.88 qt of water at 158.8 F 148.0 F 120 min



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Old 08-17-2011, 02:42 PM   #2
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White Labs WLP007 says it attenuates up to 80% up to 10% ABV. If you are looking to make a 15-18% ABV beer, this may be the wrong yeast.

Read the descriptions for WLP099, WLP500, WLP510, WLP530, WLP540, and determine what flavor character you want. These will all attenuate at a high rate around 15% ABV.



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Old 08-17-2011, 02:54 PM   #3
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I read that 007 was good for high gravity beers, didn't catch the 10% part. I've read of some taking wyeast 1056 upto 12% so I was hoping this could get a little further. I've also read bad stuff about wlp099 and I want to stay away from a Belgian strain. I'll have to look into some on that list.

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Old 08-17-2011, 03:10 PM   #4
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Might wanna consider using distiller's yeast?

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Old 08-17-2011, 03:23 PM   #5
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I wouldn't start with the turbo yeast, you could ferment with whatever yeast you want to start with (ie. whatever matches the flavor profile you want) and build a second larger starter of the turbo to finish it off. Oh, and by larger starter I mean two to three gallons.

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Old 08-17-2011, 03:27 PM   #6
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Use two pitches. Start with WLP007. Let that run it's course, you'll get like 10%+ then pitch a large amount of WLP099. You'll retain the flavor profile of the WLP007. Just keep the WLP099 under 70, and you'll be pleasantly surprised. And yes, oxygenate everytime you add more fermentables.

Oh, and add more hops. You need WAYYYYY more bitterness to balance this beer. I'll put it this way, I just made a DFH 120 minute clone (1.182 OG), and used 16oz of hops in a 5 batch. It's still unbalanced towards the sweet side, my pale ale is more bitter.

I would think you could get WLP007 and WLP099 combined to chew through an all malt 1.150 beer. You have the right idea of adding the fermentables slowly over time.

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Old 08-17-2011, 04:06 PM   #7
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Thanks for the input!

I'll order some wlp009 today. I'll also add a lot more hops.

This is some high dollar s$%t, I hope it goes well.

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Old 08-18-2011, 03:23 AM   #8
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Why?????

I really can't understand why people keep trying to brew high alcohol beers that they really don't understand what the outcome is going to be. Would it be better to craft a beer that comes in around 10% first and try and perfect that before pushing higher. I would think that 10% would be about the limit, where different practices might need to be used.

I must confess that while I still don't really see any reason to brew anything above about 8%, I just did a Barleywine; currently at 1.018 from 1.100 (10.5%), and half of it will have oak and rum added which will take it to 12%. I expect to still have a lot of it come Xmas 2012.

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Old 08-18-2011, 11:26 AM   #9
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Why?

Here are my reasons. I've brewed some up to 11% with good results so I want to try a really big brew. Everytime I try something new the outcome can come in question, now it's time to find out what I can do with this. I want to try something that will challenge me and the scientist in me sees this as exciting. Experimentation is fun.

I'm really looking forward to tracking the changes of the brew over the next several years. I can't get big stuff like this here in NC so I'll have to make it myself.

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Old 08-18-2011, 03:46 PM   #10
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The 10% limit really is just an estimate - most all yeasts, when treated properly (i.e. nice healthy pitch from starter, yeast nutrient, plenty of oxygenation, etc.) will ferment a beer well beyond 10%, including 007. I brewed up a 13% wheat wine with this yeast no problem.



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