Originally Posted by jlpred55
Do you add your DME in all at the beginning? Do you do full wort boils or partial? Reason I ask, I noticed that when I was doing extract with partial boils- I needed to add half the DME late to avoid much of that twang. When I moved to full boils it didn't matter. I also noticed that it was more prominent in lighter, less highly hopped styles. If I brewed anything like an IPA or even an Amber it never was there. Cream Ales, Blondes, etc was all noticable until I added late. Maybe you know all this already.
Another thing. If you want to go all grain, you don't need a stinking brewstand or a bunch of equipment! A 10 gal cylindrical drink cooler or other rectangle cooler with a hose braid and a shut off valve works awesome for batch sparging. I built mine for less than $50. I use a SP-!0 burner and have a 12 gallon brew pot. Maybe spent $150 on the whole set up to go from extract to all grain. Easy as heck.
I have added the DME all at once, so far, as the directions called for.
I do "Almost full" boils - I have a 5 gallon SS pot that I've used so far, and I can't quite get a full boil in there. but that's changing soon
I'll try the late DME addition when I brew the Pliney clone, and I'll be doing a full boil on that one as well (I'm actually thinking about doubling the batch to 10 gallons)
As for all grain, I know I could
do it pretty cheap. But what fun would that be?!? I'm one of those "Squirrel!!!" guys - 2 20 gallon boilermakers in the garage that haven't gotten wet yet.
I'm planning to do the 10 gallon batch, full boil, in a boilermaker on a burner (The AG rig is going to be electric)
Or, I might just punch the hole in the Boilermaker and install the element, fired with the prototype controller I built to compete with those $1300 electric controller guys... (Long story, but it's coming - Working on the screen printing for the control panels