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Old 01-05-2014, 03:25 PM   #11
texcan2000
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Except with batch sparging you add your sparge water to bring the grain bed up close to 170F. 185F water gets me to 168F on my system. Stir like crazy, stir some more. Once the mash stops circling, Vorlaf and drain. No need to wait 15 minutes. Denny has done a lot of experimenting with this.

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Old 01-05-2014, 04:08 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by texcan2000 View Post
Except with batch sparging you add your sparge water to bring the grain bed up close to 170F. 185F water gets me to 168F on my system. Stir like crazy, stir some more. Once the mash stops circling, Vorlaf and drain. No need to wait 15 minutes. Denny has done a lot of experimenting with this.
The 170 F is not universally agreed on and some even use room temp water nowadays...still a batch sparge.

To the OP, the number of times you have to batch sparge to hit your numbers depends on you equipment. For me it is a single batch on all but the biggest beers...even to capture 13 gallons for an 11 gallon batch. I play with my mash water volume to make sure I do not have to do two batch sparges but those trying to do 5 gallon batches from a 5 gallon cooler MLT, will likely do two batch sparges for even moderate gravity beers.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:21 PM   #13
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Right on. Its good to get that cleared up. The only sparging experience I have is with fly sparging but batxh sparging sounds way quicker. I wonder if stepping up the grain bill by about 10% would compensate for any lost efficiency.

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Old 01-05-2014, 04:39 PM   #14
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Right on. Its good to get that cleared up. The only sparging experience I have is with fly sparging but batxh sparging sounds way quicker. I wonder if stepping up the grain bill by about 10% would compensate for any lost efficiency.
Pick a recipe where it does not matter is the OG is a little low (APA/IPA/Dry Stout) and use the same grain bill. Check your efficiency after. Preferably make a recipe you know well. Add some DME to bring it up if it is low.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:58 PM   #15
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About this 15 minute wait to mash . If you batch sparge twice or even once perhaps would that not take about 15 minutes to do ? i.e. pour in water stir good , vorlaugh and then drain must take that long or longer as it takes a while to drain . Maybe that is where the 15 minutes mash comes into play.

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Old 01-05-2014, 06:43 PM   #16
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Right, it's batch sparging. It can also be called English Sparge or Partigyle in some cases depending on what you do with the various runnings. Where I have heard of the term remashing is where you take the runoff from a first mash and stir in a new fresh grist to get a super high gravity wort out of it.

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Old 01-05-2014, 08:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Onkel_Udo
The 170 F is not universally agreed on and some even use room temp water nowadays...still a batch sparge. To the OP, the number of times you have to batch sparge to hit your numbers depends on you equipment. For me it is a single batch on all but the biggest beers...even to capture 13 gallons for an 11 gallon batch. I play with my mash water volume to make sure I do not have to do two batch sparges but those trying to do 5 gallon batches from a 5 gallon cooler MLT, will likely do two batch sparges for even moderate gravity beers.
Temperature doesn't matter, thanks! I researched the topic and found Kai's work. One question, could I then add hotter water to the grain bed to raise my temperature above 170F to reach a quicker boil? Or would that cause tannin extraction?
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texcan2000

Temperature doesn't matter, thanks! I researched the topic and found Kai's work. One question, could I then add hotter water to the grain bed to raise my temperature above 170F to reach a quicker boil? Or would that cause tannin extraction?
Only if the mash pH is too high (above 6?). If your mash pH is in the 5.2-5.6 range, you can boil the mash and still not extract tannins (which is why decoction mashing works).
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:46 AM   #19
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Thank you JLem, that is great to know!

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