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Old 02-12-2013, 01:11 AM   #21
Jbird
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordzilla

I don't have this same stand, but I modified mine with some pieces of steel with two 90 degree bends in them for added stability. My stand was not designed for a pot as big as mine.

Not the best picture, but it illustrates what I did to mine.
Oh well that's pretty nice.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:45 AM   #22
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"The burner on my 60 gallon steam boil kettle is only 200K BTU and I can get 50 gallons from mash to boil in less than 15 min."

On planet earth at sea level. It takes 960 BTU/Hr per pound to take water from 212 deg F to 212 deg F boiling (change of state). 50 gall. weighs around 415 pounds. To bring that weight of water to a boil in one hour would take almost 400K BTU. The ducks don't line up for 15 minutes. I didn't figure in the BTU/Hr for the TD from mash temp to 212 F. That number would be, BTU/Hr = weight X TD. It takes a 50 HP boiler to boil 50 G of wort in a steam kettle in 15 minutes. Regardless, of whether the kettle is direct fired or remote. A 200 K steam boiler is about 6 HP. You need not verify my numbers on how much LP will be burned with a burner rated at 185K, or convert them to gallons, or tell me that I was close. But, thank you anyway. I used pounds because a home brewer knows that a tank is 20 pounds and really has no reason to know the volume. A pound of LP depending on purity is 21K-25K BTU/Hr pound.

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Old 02-12-2013, 02:11 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbird View Post
I want to ask why you would want to modify the stand? What would you add? Maybe some pics would help me see it better.

We had a larger than normal pot on this thing once (20 Gal), for a crab boil. The pot was hard to keep balanced once it was filled with all of the sea's bounty. A little time with an arc welder and some angle iron resulted in a much more stable, and safer, burner/boiler setup. I don't have any pics on hand, sorry. I was mostly remarking about how you can adapt these things to work with any brew/boil/fryer setup with a little work.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VladOfTrub
"The burner on my 60 gallon steam boil kettle is only 200K BTU and I can get 50 gallons from mash to boil in less than 15 min."

On planet earth at sea level. It takes 960 BTU/Hr per pound to take water from 212 deg F to 212 deg F boiling (change of state). 50 gall. weighs around 415 pounds. To bring that weight of water to a boil in one hour would take almost 400K BTU. The ducks don't line up for 15 minutes. I didn't figure in the BTU/Hr for the TD from mash temp to 212 F. That number would be, BTU/Hr = weight X TD. It takes a 50 HP boiler to boil 50 G of wort in a steam kettle in 15 minutes. Regardless, of whether the kettle is direct fired or remote. A 200 K steam boiler is about 6 HP. You need not verify my numbers on how much LP will be burned with a burner rated at 185K, or convert them to gallons, or tell me that I was close. But, thank you anyway. I used pounds because a home brewer knows that a tank is 20 pounds and really has no reason to know the volume. A pound of LP depending on purity is 21K-25K BTU/Hr pound.
I was only converting so people could consider cost of operating. In the US we generally purchase propane by the "gallon" not the pound and I thought it would be helpful for some to have it converted to gallons. The thread is about purchasing a 185k btu burner and the cost to operate it may be useful to the potential purchaser. With all due respect your reasoning above is inconsistent, lacking important variables and not applied properly. But thank you anyway.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:51 AM   #25
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I have the SP1. A great value. Sure, it uses a lot of propane at full throttle and roars a bit, but the only time I use anywhere near full throttle is for the first 10 minutes for strike water, then another 10 minutes to reach boil (14 gallons for my last BIAB batch). Once you are at boil, you can crank it right down to a comparative "whisper". I don't really see all the fuss about other expensive burners, I doubt if the water knows the difference.

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Old 02-12-2013, 02:22 PM   #26
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I don't see the fuss about using more gas. Stepping up to 10 gallon batches will use more gas no matter what. I would imagine going slow or going fast it will all take the same amount of gas to get to a boil. Using this burner will save time. I guess it all just comes down to how often a person buys gas and wether or not thy understand it is a necessity to brewing with a burner. My time to me is worth alot on the weekends. The faster I brew the more time I have with my kids

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Old 02-12-2013, 02:33 PM   #27
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OK I am missing something here I guess. Looks to me like it is a weed burner turned upright. Any reason a guy could not put a 20 psi regulator or even get rid of the regulator on a banjo burner and have it work about the same.

Reason I ask is because my weed burner does not have any jets or regulator

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Old 02-12-2013, 07:31 PM   #28
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I'll post a review of mine this weekend after I use it

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Old 02-13-2013, 03:50 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varmintman View Post
OK I am missing something here I guess. Looks to me like it is a weed burner turned upright. Any reason a guy could not put a 20 psi regulator or even get rid of the regulator on a banjo burner and have it work about the same.

Reason I ask is because my weed burner does not have any jets or regulator
You are not far off... It has a little swivel plate tat you can spread out the flame, but I don't use that ever. I suspect the regulator is of a higher pressure as compared say to the type on a grill for example. I am likely wrong here...
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:37 AM   #30
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The bayou classic sq14 is only $44 on amazon prime, it's well suited to homebrew, will hold a keggle, and it maintains a perfect boil on low in my blichmann 10gal. Way more efficient than that jet burner IMO.

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