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01-21-2008, 06:12 AM
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#1
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Winston Salem, North Carolina
Posts: 12
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Will this work??
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I have an idea. I had a "chill haze" problem with my Pale Ale. I was told that this was caused by not dropping the wort temperature quick enough. This is my plan...
I have a medium size box that I have lined with a trash can liner. I'll placed my sanatized fermenter in the box and added 1 gallon of carbon filtered water (this keeps the fermenter from floating). Next I surround the fermenter with ice and add water. Now, when the wort has finished boiling and I'm ready to chill, I just dump the wort into the fermenter. Top off the fermenter to 5 gallon (at 70 degrees). Add the yeast and seal with an air lock.
Comments please. I'm using Mutons Light Malt Extract and I really don't want the finished product to be cloudy.
Thanks,
Skipdogchip
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01-21-2008, 06:17 AM
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#2
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,041
Liked 68 Times on 56 Posts Likes Given: 19
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Just brew a 3 gallon batch of strong beer and add it to two gallons of cold (sanitized) water. No need for the box or anything.
__________________
In Process: Mango Beer, Homebrewers Pale Ale
Bottled/Kegged:Spicy Light Rye, Rice-adjunct Pale Ale, Mild Bourbon Porter, Roasty Stout, Basic Light Mead, Bourbon County Stout Clone
Up Next: Berlinerweiss, Chocolate Raspberry Ale, and American IPA
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01-21-2008, 07:04 AM
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#3
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 334
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
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you can build a wort chiller for around $35, it will cool to pitching temp in 15-20 min. If you plan on brewing into the future the procurement of one is inevitable, so why not build one now.
It took me about 20 to build mine.
-ander
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01-21-2008, 03:18 PM
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#4
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 1,637
Liked 6 Times on 5 Posts
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Clearly you're doing partial boils, which makes cooling your wort a lot easier. How large of a boil are you doing? Usually you can avoid all the hassle by pre-chilling all your top-off water in the fridge, and dunking your brew pot in a sink of ice water for a bit. You'll need to figure out how much to cool the wort in the brew pot before transferring based on the size of your boil.
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01-21-2008, 05:48 PM
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#5
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Winston Salem, North Carolina
Posts: 12
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Thanks...
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2 gallon boil...add 1oz. 6.9AAU Cascade and 6.6# LME. Boil 55 minutes...add 1oz. 6.0AAU Cascade. Boil additional 5 minutes.
My plan is to achieve a "cold break" as quickly as possible to avoid "chill haze". Especially since I'm using a Light Malt Extract. My last batch, Pale Ale, was a little cloudy, even after 3 month conditioning.
A traditional "wort chiller" is not in my budget at this time. That's why I'm looking at other possibilities.
Thanks again for any help with this.
Skipdogchip
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01-21-2008, 06:01 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Philadelphia area
Posts: 1,540
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts Likes Given: 84
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I also do two gallon boils. I just fill my kitchen sink half full of cold water, then when the boil is done, I put the whole pot in, followed (carefully, to avoid splashing) by a whole bunch of ice (not the precision measurements) and wait until all the ice melts. Then I just pour it all (except for the sludge) into my brew tank, pitch and off we go.
A wort chiller looks nice and my LHBS has a fine looking one for about $40 but this works just fine for me and my five gallon batches.
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01-21-2008, 06:04 PM
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#7
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 955
Liked 6 Times on 4 Posts
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If its a glass carboy for primary I wouldnt pour hot wort into a cold glass vessel it will shock the glass and shatter.
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01-21-2008, 06:15 PM
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#8
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 198
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
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I used to chill 3 gallons of water to near freezing, then pour into my fermentor.
I would then pour my boiling hot wort directly into the fermentor, and it would chill it quickly down to around 70-80f to get my cold break.
However, I got a couple off tasting beers, and I came to the conclusion that this technique oxidized the wort while still hot, even if only for a fraction of a second.
Instead I just made an IC, and stuck with that. Though I wondered if the technique might have worked if I siphoned the hot wort into the bottom fermentor to get the chill, without oxidizing it?
nick
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