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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Why doesn't everyone just BIAB?
View Poll Results: How do you brew?
I BIAB 295 34.87%
I use a 3 vessel system 340 40.19%
I don't brew all-grain, I'm an extract brewer 100 11.82%
What's BIAB? 22 2.60%
I use a system that doesn't fit into the other categories 89 10.52%
Voters: 846. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 04-22-2012, 05:58 PM   #101
wailingguitar
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I use an old cooler to mash in. Already had it, no extra cost. Spent maybe $20 max on the manifold. Having brewed professionally for many years and also using the MLT to design recipes that will be used in commercial settings, it makes more sense to use the method that you would see in a commercial brewery. The more that is the same, the easier it is to scale the recipe. I also appreciate the time it takes to run off since I can use it for other things... while running off I can get my fermenters prepped, etc. A brew day runs me 4 hours setup to clean up, I'm happy with that.

Frankly I find the traditional method easier and less of a PITA than BIAB. One thing that people go on about with a traditional method is that "sparging is a pain"... It doesn't have to be. People seem to think you have to trickle the water in slowly over the course of the run off. BS. Start the run off and get the water in as quickly as possible without serious disturbance of the grain bed. Takes me 5-10 minutes max. Then you just let it run.

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Old 04-22-2012, 06:25 PM   #102
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My method varies with the recipe. I use a bag for small beers and anything with fruit in it.

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Old 04-22-2012, 09:05 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haeffnkr View Post
I just read all of this.

I saw no one push back on the lack of efficiency claim with BIAB.
I triple grind all my grain with my barley crusher.
I have to adjust the recipes listed here DOWN because I figure my efficiency at 89% and have hit my numbers spot on with my last 5 batches.
I use tastybrew calculator.
I get clear beer and the usual amount of trub in the fermenter.

Here is my first brew -
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/1st-...s-biab-291598/

As a few others stated.... going to an EBIAB setup soon with a pump... it will be awesome. Will be able to nail the mash temps for the whole mash cycle and not even have to look at it for an hour.
That is time saved.


thanks Kevin
There's pretty good evidence that your conversion is done in about 15 minutes. You might want to do an iodine test on your wort just to see but if your idea is to not have to look at it for an hour, why not try to finish the whole thing in 15 minutes?
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:36 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM-MN View Post
There's pretty good evidence that your conversion is done in about 15 minutes. You might want to do an iodine test on your wort just to see but if your idea is to not have to look at it for an hour, why not try to finish the whole thing in 15 minutes?
I think it was BYO that did some tests that showed that even though iodine may indicate all starches are converted to sugars in 20 minutes, leaving the mash does have advantages. The longer the mash sits(within reason) the mre fermentable the wort will be. So just because starches are no longer present, sugarsstill go through other conversions during the mash.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:12 AM   #105
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For 5.5 gallon batches in the dead of winter, nothing beats BIAB. Its been said already, but I do both. I still extract some too. For my 10 gal batches, I use my three tier. For a nice spring day, I three tier. Its -10f outside, (and my boat hogs my garage so) the rig has to be outdoors? Its BIAB (and occasional extract) time. Something about wet and subzero that likes to freeze skin. Not to mention any hose left outdoors for more than a minute or two in that weather is frozen solid too. Takes the fun outta a brew day.

Also, for the apartment dwellers and those with similar space limitations, BIAB opens the door to all grain brewing that would otherwise be closed.

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Old 04-23-2012, 11:43 AM   #106
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I use 5.2 Mash Stabilizer so the pH question becomes moot with BIAB.

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Old 04-23-2012, 11:50 AM   #107
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For those that BIAB, what is your water to grist ratio? I use 2.6 quarts/lb. of malt for a 5.5 gallon batch. This seems to work for my system but I was wondering how it compares to others. Also, I bought a nylon bag from a guy (mbwilser) on eBay and it works great. He customizes it to your kettle. Just type BIAB in the search.

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Old 04-23-2012, 11:57 AM   #108
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Also, for those that BIAB, I double grind my grains at a pretty fine level (.36) to get better efficiency. I've found that if I condition my malt before I grind, I get a lot less dust and flower. I'm not a squeezer so I get about 70-75% efficiency most of the time. Here's a link: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/ind...t_Conditioning

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Old 04-23-2012, 02:01 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domes View Post
For those that BIAB, what is your water to grist ratio? I use 2.6 gal./lb. of malt for a 5.5 gallon batch. This seems to work for my system but I was wondering how it compares to others. Also, I bought a nylon bag from a guy (mbwilser) on eBay and it works great. He customizes it to your kettle. Just type BIAB in the search.
It depends on the how much grain I am mashing. Generally if I am using 10lbs or less of grain it will be as high as 2qt/lbs. Yesterday I did a bigger beer and ended up with 1.3qt/lbs for my ratio. There was almost no difference in my efficiency between the 1.3 and 2.0 (I get between 75-80% now). From this I would assume that so long as the ratio of water to grist is with a reasonable number (I am guessing 1.25 at the low end to 2.0 on the higher water/grist) it does not have a major impact on efficiency.

With that aside, this weekend was my first 'big' beer, mashing 14lbs of grain. My current equipment setup has probably hit its limit. I would need to get a bigger brew kettle to mash anymore. The other issue I have now hit with my current system is beer volume; Its tough to get more the 5 gallons without topping off which is not ideal.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:47 PM   #110
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I do 10 gallon batches in my electric keggle up to about 1.050.
I can do about 24 pounds of grain with a little hit to efficiency. About 65 68 versus 70 75 for grain bills under 14 pounds.
The hardest partbis is getting the bag out of the keggle. I am always worried it will split.

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