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Old 04-09-2010, 02:45 PM   #11
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Before I started whirlpooling with a pump I would just sit next to the kettle and gently rock it back and forth. Not enough to slosh the wort around, but it was plenty to keep that output hose hot.

-Joe



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Old 04-09-2010, 03:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jlpred55 View Post
Humm. I am a little confused. As I get mine whirlpooling as soon as the boil is off- been doing that a long time and never had an oxidation issue. I have a huge stout sitting around that is a couple years old (was whirpooled like the tasmainan devil above 100F) and it is still getting better. Maybe I am doing it all wrong? Perhaps I live in a black hole with no oxygen present?
ditto. from the minute i drop the IC in i'm whirlpooling and have never noticed an oxidized flavor. def cuts down on water usage and time, plus you wanna aerate your wort prior to pitching the yeast anyhow. i don't see a problem...


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Old 04-13-2010, 01:53 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
I need to come up with a way to raise my IC. When it sits in the bottom of my keggle, it cools the bottom. There is a "puddle" of cool wort in the bottom, with hot wort above. When I give the IC a swirl, the "hot" line suddenly will burn my hand.
Just use an oven mit

I personally use a 5/8" chiller that I made and just gently raise and lower it while it's chilling. It drops 5.5gal from flameout to 70 deg F in 10min flat.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:01 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
I need to come up with a way to raise my IC. When it sits in the bottom of my keggle, it cools the bottom. There is a "puddle" of cool wort in the bottom, with hot wort above. When I give the IC a swirl, the "hot" line suddenly will burn my hand.
There's no puddle of cool wort on the bottom of the keggle. What's going on is that there is a temperature gradient that forms around the coil, dropping the temperature locally and reducing the transfer of heat from the wort to the coil. When you move the IC, you break up this gradient, which jacks up the difference in temperature between the coil and the wort, radically increasing the rate of heat transfer.
Short version: Don't raise the coil, make it (or the wort) move constantly.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:04 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by nostalgia View Post
I've been doing the same thing for the last few brews: start the pump recirculating wort about 2 minutes before the end of the boil. Drop in the chiller at flameout, chill. Remove the chiller and continue to whirlpool 10 minutes or until I'm bored. Stop the whirlpool, wait a few minutes for everything to settle and drain to fermenter.

Works fast and settles out a lot of break material. Here's a recent brew - note that I did use a hop bag!



-Joe
Why do you have two pickups in the kettle?
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:27 AM   #16
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Why do you have two pickups in the kettle?
If you're whirlpooling, you need a feed and return line.
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:11 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by maskednegator View Post
If you're whirlpooling, you need a feed and return line.
Exactly.

-Joe
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:16 PM   #18
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Duh. I'm so used to my setup with the input on top of the kettle with a silicone hose running to the inside bottom of the kettle I didn't think of the return being so low.
Is the one pickup with the cap the out or the in?

The reason is I'm asking is I get a lot of trub in my center mounted sanke pickup with a false bottom.

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Old 04-14-2010, 12:20 AM   #19
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The short one on the bottom is the pickup tube. The long, angled one is the whirlpool port.

-Joe

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Old 04-15-2010, 06:29 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by nostalgia View Post
The short one on the bottom is the pickup tube. The long, angled one is the whirlpool port.

-Joe
I've seen Joe's whirlpool in action...it's ridiculously fast!


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