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View Poll Results: Do you whirlpool hot or cold?
Hot 9 29.03%
Cold 18 58.06%
Don't whirlpool 4 12.90%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 01-29-2008, 01:43 PM   #11
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check this out www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php



Edit: From www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php

Q: How does it work?

A: What I've done is combine an immersion chiller and a whirlpool, to rapidly cool my wort and leave the cold break behind. The action of moving the hot wort across the chiller coils results in a very rapid chilling of the wort.

The basic setup is that I put my immersion chiller in the boil pot with 15 minutes remaining in the boil. I connect my pump to my kettle spigot (out) with a length of tubing. From the pump output it goes through a hunk (about 2 feet) of the silicon tubing that B3 sells with their systems. This hunk of tubing is attached to a piece of copper tubing with a hose clamp. The tubing has a gentle curve to it and goes underneath the surface of the wort, just inside the coils of the immersion chiller. Although the pump is clean, and has been pumping 170F+ water for the past hour during the sparge, I turn it on for a few minutes to recirculate the wort through it and heat sanitize the setup.

When the boil is complete, I turn on the pump and the chiller water. The temp drops more than 100F in 3 minutes, using one of the beefy, B3 Super Chillers. It is 50' of 1/2" copper, which is a huge amount of surface area. The rest of the drop (another 50F or so) takes longer, but it is still as quick or quicker than any counter-flow I've used. I watch the thermometer until the temperature is where I want it for pitching, then I turn off the water and the pump to let everything settle for 20 minutes. This allows me to rack clear wort to the fermenter and leave all the trub behind in the kettle. If you don't care about it settling, you can just run it off at that point.

There are many advantages to this technique. The first is that you're cooling the entire wort below 140F in about a minute or two. Below 140F you're not going to keep generating DMS like you will with a plate chiller or counter flow chiller. If you're into clean german lagers, this is a critical factor in success with this style. The other huge advantage is leaving the cold break behind. With a counter flow chiller or plate chiller you're sending all that cold break into the fermenter and you're going to need to get rid of it if you want the best lager possible. With the whirlpool chiller, the trub forms a nice cone in the kettle and you can leave it behind when you transfer to your fermenter.



Last edited by CarlLBC; 01-29-2008 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 01-29-2008, 02:20 PM   #12
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I do a hot whirlpool before I drain through my CFC.

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Old 01-29-2008, 02:57 PM   #13
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Well, the Therminator instructions recommend a hot whirlpool, followed by cooling with a screen in front of the plate chiller. I suppose I could do another whirlpool after cooling to capture the cold break. Any downside to this approach?
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Old 01-29-2008, 03:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradsul
I do a hot whirlpool before I drain through my CFC.
+1 Same here
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Old 01-29-2008, 03:49 PM   #15
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I built a set up like Jamil's and follow his procedure.

I'll turn on the pump a couple of minutes before I cut the flame and run it until the temp is close to where I want it. I'll only let it set in the kettle a few more minutes and then run off to my fermenters. I don't seem to get a ton of break material in the fermenters, but I also tend to use whole leaf hops and have a boil screen so I think a lot of the break material is filtered out. If I use pellet hops, I'll use a hop bag and still get very little break material or trub in the fermenter. I probably only leave a pint of wort behind.


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