Whirlpool and DMS

Suicided1954 · 03-18-2010, 04:59 PM

I read that Stone Brewery whirlpools @ 200 degrees for 75 to 90 minutes. I have the ability to whirlpool at a maintained temp now that I have my electric kettle. If I boil for 90 minutes and whirlpool @ 200 for 75 minutes, then send it through my counterflow chiller. Am I at risk of forming DMS during that whirlpool time? I'll be using American 2-row.

I am doing round 2 of the Ruination clone from BYO.

I listened to the Brew Strong pod cast on DMS... I think I will eliminate all of the pre-cursors with a 90 minute boil but I'm not sure.

Will I get closer to the real beer?

**pompeiisneaks** · 03-18-2010, 05:05 PM

From what I just read on the wiki, the DMS is boiled off usually at higher temps, and its the lower heat temps that cause more creation of DMS. I don't see temperature thresholds, but if its near 200, I'd suspect that is so close to boiling that it won't create more DMS. Then you just need to chill rapidly to get throught the DMS creation range. (all per my read of DMS on wiki, so I may be up in the night)

Suicided1954 · 03-18-2010, 06:36 PM

Yeah I'm think I'm ok...We'll soon see.

I am looking to replace the dry hopping with late hop additions in the whirlpool.

Suicided1954 · 03-18-2010, 07:03 PM

From the Wiki:

Kettle boiling hydrolizes SMM to DMS which is removed during evaporation. The half life or time needed to remove half of the DMS is 40 minutes so that three-fourths is removed in 90 minutes. Narssis recommends a 100 minute boil to reduce the level of SMM and DMS to acceptable levels in most beers.

The level of DMSO does not change during the kettle boil. A small amount of DMS, 0.4 ppb, may be contributed by hops, especially if added in large amounts late in the boil. As long as the wort is hot SMM will be converted to DMS. It is important to convert SMM to DMS in the kettle so that build up during the hot wort stand is minimized.

The following steps should insure low levels of DMS in the finished beer:

1.Boil the entire wort 90 minutes or longer
2.Ensure that the boil is vigorous - rolling
3.Allow at least 8% evaporation
4.Minimize the hot wort standing time
5.Rapidly cool the wort

Suicided1954 · 03-19-2010, 03:12 AM

Well she is still making steam and still evaporating... I didnt take that into consideration. I will be 3/4 of a gallon short. I hit my pre-boil gravity and I was supposed to have a 1.076 OG.... 15 minutes left.

Suicided1954 · 03-19-2010, 04:41 AM

oh Lord.... 1.093!!! Glad I made a 2k liter starter..... The clone is out the window...now I just hope it's drinkable.

Suicided1954 · 03-19-2010, 01:58 PM

I am an idiot... or I had one too many homebrews last night... it just occurred to me that i could've added water and brought the gravity and volume back...

RegionalChaos · 03-19-2010, 05:32 PM

Yea, I read a good article a while back about how breweries will come in heavy on their gravity, then adjust it by adding boiling water in the last few minutes. They sometimes have to adjust their hop additions on the fly to compensate for change in volume, but otherwise this allows them to hit the target OG every time. Made a lot of since to me.

Suicided1954 · 04-23-2010, 05:30 PM

UPDATE: My experiment worked!!!! I made a ruination clone and and it turned out better than my last go at it which I thought was close. I whirlpooled at 200 deg. for 1 hour after the boil. I added my late hop additions and what should've been my dry hop addition at the beginning of the whirlpool. I fermented for 2 wks in the primary and racked to a keg, I put it on gas a week later. I had a couple of pints last wednesday and again lastnight...perfect. I sacrificed an hour on brewday and I didnt have to mess with dry hopping!