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#1 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 91
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#2 |
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Why that human mask?
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From what I just read on the wiki, the DMS is boiled off usually at higher temps, and its the lower heat temps that cause more creation of DMS. I don't see temperature thresholds, but if its near 200, I'd suspect that is so close to boiling that it won't create more DMS. Then you just need to chill rapidly to get throught the DMS creation range. (all per my read of DMS on wiki, so I may be up in the night)
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~Phil Fermenting: IPA, Vienna Lager Kegged: Imperial IPA, Irish Red Ale, Stout Bottled: Pear Mead Drinking: IIPA, Red Ale, Stout Mead |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 91
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Yeah I'm think I'm ok...We'll soon see.
I am looking to replace the dry hopping with late hop additions in the whirlpool. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 91
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From the Wiki:
Kettle boiling hydrolizes SMM to DMS which is removed during evaporation. The half life or time needed to remove half of the DMS is 40 minutes so that three-fourths is removed in 90 minutes. Narssis recommends a 100 minute boil to reduce the level of SMM and DMS to acceptable levels in most beers. The level of DMSO does not change during the kettle boil. A small amount of DMS, 0.4 ppb, may be contributed by hops, especially if added in large amounts late in the boil. As long as the wort is hot SMM will be converted to DMS. It is important to convert SMM to DMS in the kettle so that build up during the hot wort stand is minimized. The following steps should insure low levels of DMS in the finished beer: 1.Boil the entire wort 90 minutes or longer 2.Ensure that the boil is vigorous - rolling 3.Allow at least 8% evaporation 4.Minimize the hot wort standing time 5.Rapidly cool the wort |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 91
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Well she is still making steam and still evaporating... I didnt take that into consideration. I will be 3/4 of a gallon short. I hit my pre-boil gravity and I was supposed to have a 1.076 OG.... 15 minutes left.
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 91
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oh Lord.... 1.093!!! Glad I made a 2k liter starter..... The clone is out the window...now I just hope it's drinkable.
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 91
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I am an idiot... or I had one too many homebrews last night... it just occurred to me that i could've added water and brought the gravity and volume back...
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Drain, OR
Posts: 454
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Yea, I read a good article a while back about how breweries will come in heavy on their gravity, then adjust it by adding boiling water in the last few minutes. They sometimes have to adjust their hop additions on the fly to compensate for change in volume, but otherwise this allows them to hit the target OG every time. Made a lot of since to me.
__________________
How I brew: Stir plate starters, Extract, Full boil in a Turkey Fryer, 5 gallon batches. Brewing upgrades in progress: keggle, CFC, temp controlled ferment Planned House Ales: an Amber, an IPA, a dark IPA, a Pale Ale, a blueberry oatmeal stout, a dry Irish stout, Apfelwien |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 91
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UPDATE: My experiment worked!!!! I made a ruination clone and and it turned out better than my last go at it which I thought was close. I whirlpooled at 200 deg. for 1 hour after the boil. I added my late hop additions and what should've been my dry hop addition at the beginning of the whirlpool. I fermented for 2 wks in the primary and racked to a keg, I put it on gas a week later. I had a couple of pints last wednesday and again lastnight...perfect. I sacrificed an hour on brewday and I didnt have to mess with dry hopping!
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