The Great Bottle Opener Giveaway

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Whirlpool and Cold break

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-05-2012, 02:50 AM   #11
chumpsteak
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Meridian, ID
Posts: 845
Liked 92 Times on 78 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

yeah, what he said

__________________
chumpsteak is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2012, 02:34 PM   #12
AnchorBock
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 576
Liked 30 Times on 23 Posts
Likes Given: 15

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnchorBock View Post
I add a half tablet of whirfloc 5 minutes before flameout, chill wort, remove chiller, whirlpool with a spoon (basically spin in one direction for a minute or until you get a good vortex going), put lid on and let sit for an hour. I have my valve set to empty all but 1.25 gallons of wort and empty 5.25 into the carboy. My post boil volume is 6.5 gallons. I dont get a huge cone, but the trub and hop matter is usually in a little cone and im able to leave the bulk of it behind.

I only have issues when using 5+ ounces of pellets and even then I just end up with a little less beer into the keg.
Here are a couple of pics to demonstrate on a batch with 3 oz of hops:

Half tablet whirlfloc added with 5 minutes left, chilled wort, Manual whirlpool with sanitized spoon, left to sit for an hour:


In the better bottle - can see a very fine amount of trub at the very bottom:
__________________
AnchorBock is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2012, 08:07 PM   #13
BassBeer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 369
Liked 50 Times on 38 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

I was under the impression that you want some of the cold break proteins because their unsaturated fatty acids act as nutrition for the yeast?

Regardless, I always cold crash and siphon carefully so my final product comes out nice and clear.

__________________
BassBeer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-23-2012, 08:25 PM   #14
AnchorBock
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 576
Liked 30 Times on 23 Posts
Likes Given: 15

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BassBeer
I was under the impression that you want some of the cold break proteins because their unsaturated fatty acids act as nutrition for the yeast?

Regardless, I always cold crash and siphon carefully so my final product comes out nice and clear.
I heard jamil on brew strong or another podcast that even if you tranfer no visible trub plenty of the beneficial proteins and such are present in the wort. I like to leave the trub and hops behind, makes washing yeast that much easier and its just cleaner that way.
__________________

Homebrewing blog: http://bagendbrewery.wordpress.com

Beer Engine Caskegerator - Hand pump/keg enclosure for Real Ale at home.

AnchorBock is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2012, 04:20 AM   #15
MachineShopBrewing
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Montrose, MN
Posts: 1,053
Liked 66 Times on 53 Posts
Likes Given: 38

Default

Quote:
I heard jamil on brew strong or another podcast that even if you tranfer no visible trub plenty of the beneficial proteins and such are present in the wort. I like to leave the trub and hops behind, makes washing yeast that much easier and its just cleaner that way.
That is how I do it also. The key is to let it sit for 30 minutes or so after you are completely done messing with it. I leave about a gallon or so in the kettle with the trub. Heck, I don't even wash my yeast anymore since it is pretty much all yeast in the bottom of my carboy after fermentation. I just swirl it up and pour into a 2000 ml flask and then pour that into a 250 ml flask when I measure my next pitch.
__________________
MachineShopBrewing is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2012, 05:00 AM   #16
agentEhrman
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 333
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 29

Default

I gave up whirl pooling and I have to say that things been great ever since. I never really got much of a benefit vs the extra time it takes. I always ended up short on beer because the whir pool wasn't effective enough for me to get it all out of the kettle. I even tried waiting up to an hr before siphoning out, it didn't really seem to help much. I would get a bit of a cone, but still the bottom gallon would have lots of trub in it. So it was either leave it behind and suffer the loss, or let it siphon and get into the bucket anyways. Now I just dump it all in and I'm done that much quicker. I can't tell any difference in the beer quality. I use irish moss at the end of the boil, I ferment 3-4 weeks in primary, and rack into the keg. My beers are always nice and clear.

__________________

Well, I think that you meant "oz" not "lbs"
Did you brew this from the couch on your porch?

agentEhrman is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2012, 12:33 PM   #17
AnchorBock
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 576
Liked 30 Times on 23 Posts
Likes Given: 15

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by agentEhrman View Post
I gave up whirl pooling and I have to say that things been great ever since. I never really got much of a benefit vs the extra time it takes. I always ended up short on beer because the whir pool wasn't effective enough for me to get it all out of the kettle. I even tried waiting up to an hr before siphoning out, it didn't really seem to help much. I would get a bit of a cone, but still the bottom gallon would have lots of trub in it. So it was either leave it behind and suffer the loss, or let it siphon and get into the bucket anyways. Now I just dump it all in and I'm done that much quicker. I can't tell any difference in the beer quality. I use irish moss at the end of the boil, I ferment 3-4 weeks in primary, and rack into the keg. My beers are always nice and clear.
You really have to leave behind a gallon or so of trub to reap the benefit of the whirlpool.
__________________
AnchorBock is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2012, 12:38 PM   #18
MalFet
/bɪər nərd/
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 
MalFet's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NYC / Kathmandu
Posts: 8,177
Liked 1216 Times on 804 Posts
Likes Given: 551

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnchorBock View Post
You really have to leave behind a gallon or so of trub to reap the benefit of the whirlpool.
Nah. I leave behind about a pint and a half beyond the hop cone, and I rarely see more than a few tablespoons of trub in my fermentor.
__________________

"Be excellent to each other." -Benjamin Franklin

MalFet is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2012, 12:46 PM   #19
dbrewski
This is my User Title
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
dbrewski's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Indeterminate
Posts: 1,019
Liked 51 Times on 45 Posts
Likes Given: 36

Default

For those of you that end up with such a clean fermenter (jealous!) are you siphoning or using a kettle valve? Because I use an IC and I do attempt to whirlpool and let it sit for an hour, but when I open the kettle valve, it is low enough on the kettle that the first thing that comes out is trub and gunk. I should get a pic next time, it is definitely not something that lays on the bottom like a powder or layer of yeast, it is like floating seaweed or something....just a floating bunch of gunk. It's not floating at the top of the wort, but it's not laying flat on the bottom either, so out it comes even though I do leave around a gallon with the worst of it. It doesn't bother me and the beer tastes fine, but looking at AnchorBock's picture, I never end up with a kettle that pretty. [Edit] I forgot to say I use whirlfloc tablets.

__________________
dbrewski is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-24-2012, 12:50 PM   #20
MalFet
/bɪər nərd/
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 
MalFet's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NYC / Kathmandu
Posts: 8,177
Liked 1216 Times on 804 Posts
Likes Given: 551

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbrewski View Post
For those of you that end up with such a clean fermenter (jealous!) are you siphoning or using a kettle valve? Because I use an IC and I do attempt to whirlpool and let it sit for an hour, but when I open the kettle valve, it is low enough on the kettle that the first thing that comes out is trub and gunk. I should get a pic next time, it is definitely not something that lays on the bottom like a powder or layer of yeast, it is like floating seaweed or something....just a floating bunch of gunk. It's not floating at the top of the wort, but it's not laying flat on the bottom either, so out it comes even though I do leave around a gallon with the worst of it. It doesn't bother me and the beer tastes fine, but looking at AnchorBock's picture, I never end up with a kettle that pretty. [Edit] I forgot to say I use whirlfloc tablets.
I have a rotating pickup tube that draws from the side of the kettle. I start out pointing it about two inches or so from the edge of the bottom, and then slowly lower it as I drain. *shrug* works for me.

In any case, I've never seen it to really matter much. I ferment in a sealed corny and then bottle directly from it, so I need to have as little junk as possible in my fermentor. Otherwise, I wouldn't really care.
__________________

"Be excellent to each other." -Benjamin Franklin

MalFet is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools