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Old 04-07-2009, 07:19 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Whisler85 View Post
im sure if you controlled the amount of beano/amylase powder you used it would turn out all right- the yeast can't make amylase (obviously, or malting/mashing would be worthless), so if you control closely how much you use, i bet you could get what you are looking for
Enzymes don't work that way--they don't get used up in the process. So using less would just mean it takes longer to ferment out, it wouldn't affect how far it goes. You need to remove or destroy the enzymes to stop them from working (pasteurization's the easiest way).
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:23 PM   #12
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Used beano once about 90 batches ago.

Never again.

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Old 03-12-2011, 02:29 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by david_42 View Post
Mr. Wizard has a few things wrong.
3. Alpha galactosidase breaks down at 56C (about 135F).
So I could potentially add some Beano during a 20min protein rest? And then cut it off during the saccrification rest? The reason I ask is I will be making a pumpkin ale with homemade malt. I worry there will not be enough amylase to break-down the pumpkin sugars.

Or perhaps I should do a mini mash with just the pumpkin and beano, add this to the main mash at the protein rest stage?
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:43 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by hollywoodbrew View Post
So I could potentially add some Beano during a 20min protein rest? And then cut it off during the saccrification rest? The reason I ask is I will be making a pumpkin ale with homemade malt. I worry there will not be enough amylase to break-down the pumpkin sugars.

Or perhaps I should do a mini mash with just the pumpkin and beano, add this to the main mash at the protein rest stage?
I would use amylase if you are worried about not having enough diastatic power in your home-malted grains. Every well-stocked homebrew shop will be able to hook you up.
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Old 03-12-2011, 03:06 AM   #15
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Even the Wizard (BYO)apologized for even suggesting it. Beano has no place in producing good beer. My 2 pecos.........

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Old 03-12-2011, 04:04 AM   #16
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Beano is great . . . if you intend to eat some cabbage and it doesn't digest all that well. Otherwise as sudbuster says - forget it.

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Old 03-12-2011, 04:45 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by ArcaneXor View Post
I would use amylase if you are worried about not having enough diastatic power in your home-malted grains. Every well-stocked homebrew shop will be able to hook you up.
I will give this a shot, perhaps just a little bit to convert the pumpkin sugar.
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Old 03-12-2011, 03:32 PM   #18
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I used it once. and ended up with a few bottle bombs. it just keeps going.

I would not use it.

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Old 09-27-2012, 09:09 PM   #19
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Have a question regarding Beano and kegging.

I recently brewed a Black IPA with an OG of 1.067 and a huge starter (1.5L, decanted and stepped to 2L) of WLP001. It began showing signs of fermentation (bubbling like crazy) within 6 hours and all was good. It chugged along pretty aggressively in a water bath (wort temp about 67*F) for about 3 days then bubbling suddenly ceased. At that point the SG was stuck at 1.024 and has held there for a week so I know it's done. In an effort to restart fermentation I pitched a pack of rehydrating Notty but got nothing.

Ideally I want to drop the FG to around 1.014. I've read alot about Beano and how once you add it it will keep going until you're bone dry but would it be possible for me to stop fermentation by cold crashing/kegging? I realize this won't denature the Beano but it will stop yeast activity.

Thoughts on adding Beano, waiting until I hit my desired FG and then cold crashing and kegging to halt yeast activity? IF possible, how many tablets of Beano would you add?

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Old 09-27-2012, 09:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david_42 View Post
2. Amyloglucosidase (which is used commercially in brewing) breaks down
Then how does it work in my body?
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